Matterhorn / North Arete / 1983

The approach was more memorable than the climb. A big snow year made for dangerous stream conditions where large sections of snow still covered open water. Our golden was in big trouble as the stream roared towards the cold dark opening. I had just enough time to drop my pack and leap to a small island of grass and grab her as the current carried her towards a certain death. Can't remember much at all about the climb itself or how we descended.