CHALLENGER ATTEMPT - N CASCADES / AUG 1997


Sometimes described as the "perfect" climb in the North Cascades, an ascent of Mt Challenger is more than just a climb. It has the longest non-expedition approach I have ever done. And yet, that was only half the fun. And considering what most of the approaches in the Pickets are like, this one is pretty straightforward, even with the exposed gully crossing at the bottom of the so called "imperfect impasse."

My older brother and I picked the wrong summer to do this climb. Of all the trips I have made to the Cascades, this was the wettest season I have ever experienced. Not a big deal, it just added some down time to our approach and used up most of our free time once we reached "Perfect Pass"

Still it all could have worked out OK if we had been able to find a way around the summit schrund. The picture in Jim Nelson's guidebook (page 221) shows a zig and a zag on the final part of the climb. The schrund at the zig cut all the way across the peak. Big and deep, we couldn't figure a way around. Very disappointing to have to turn around after the big effort to get there.