FORBIDDEN NORTHWEST FACE

I spent alot of time in the North Cascades during the Summer of 88. One of the best things I did was the NW Face of Forbidden Peak with Dave Goodman. We had been around for awhile and wanted to do one more alpine climb before going our own ways. Dave had done the W Ridge sometime ago and was looking to do a route with a more alpine feeling to it.

Beckey's guide described the route as 'in a select group of climbs ... requiring some genuine ice climbing' I think he was refering to the approach thru the broken glacier at the toe of the buttress. Other than that, its a pure rock climb in an outstanding setting. The image in the guidebook must be from another era.

We crossed at Sharkfin Col and camped at a nice little site on the north ridge. Carrying over goes without question on this route but you will notice Dave's pack got pretty large with the addition of his monster plastic boots.

The climbing was good. The rock quality, in hind sight, was definitely good. Getting on the rock was problematic due to the schrund, but what else is new. Never difficult, and never boring, it turned out to be a classic cruise up a pretty big face in what seemed like a remote setting.

We finished the route in time to descend the W Ridge and find a deluxe bivy site before dark.