N FACE OF MT FAY - CANADIAN ROCKIES / AUG 1988

The trip that was the summer of 88 began in the early days of June. By August I was teamed up with Dale Navish who had flown out from NH and Mark Whiton who at the time lived in Salt Lake City.

After a week in the Bugaboos, we found ourselves in Lake Louise at the beginning of a long spell of clear weather. Mark had always been keen to do one of the routes on the N Face of Mt Fay. I remember pics of the climb from a long ago slide show looking very tempting. And Dale, well he was game for anything.

We started off by taking the wrong and I might add dangerous approach up the 3-3.5 couloir above Moraine Lake to the Colgan Hut. While in the lower wide open part of the gully we did witness some rock fall, but by staying on the left side we safely found our way to top and on to the hut a short distance away.

The next day was clear, cool and beautiful. The climb was short and fun. I think we did the Berle/Kallen route on the far left side of the face. The descent down the W Ridge and one of the N Face snow gullies was pleasant and a good opportunity to watch how fast Mark could move on 3rd class terrain.

Back at the hut we opted for the so called normal descent down the Perrin Route. Quick and dirty on the way down, I have a hard time imagining how easy it would be to come up with a full pack. Pizza and a whole lot of beer at the 'Lac' rounded out a fun start to our Canadian adventure. Next up .... Robson