THINKING OF JAY - A DIFFERENT WAY TO CLIMB MT ROBSON / AUG 1988

Seven years later I was back with Dale and Mark after our climb on Fay. While Mark was keen to do the N Face I was equally keen to avoid the long walk, and further explore the territory where Jay and I had been in 81. Dale just wanted to climb. Unfortunately for all of us Mark decided to leave and head back to SLC. I am truly sorry Mark didn't stay with us for the next few days were glorious ones.

The hut while now infested with pack rats (that is until we blocked their nightly entrance under the door) was showing its age, but it still as dramatic a setting for a hut as you can find anywhere. First night we had it to ourselves, the next night we sleep out under the stars so some other guys could enjoy it and get up early for their climb.

Our climb went really well. We found an extension to the gully where Jay and I had been that added an additional three pitches of great climbing (see pics ) before continuing on to the summit along the same line as before. The only thing that was of some concern was the heat. The summit was cold and windy, the SE Ridge was bordering on slush. Back at the shoulder we waited for some time before beginning the down climb to the couloir. Our steps had melted out so we weren't able to find the gully and ended up rapping down the rotten wall (one rope got chopped). Back below the Roof Glacier we scurried down to the mad icefall just above the hut, did the 50 yard sprint below all the hanging ice and arrived at the hut with plenty of time to enjoy the rest of the evening.

Couple of days later we found ourselves at Squamish .... talk about hot.