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ROCK CLIMBING IN NH : the early years ~ 1968 - 1990(78) images

While not literally true, it's not an exaggeration to say that in the early 70s the climbing community was small and everyone was at least acquainted with each other. The meeting place besides the cliffs were the two climbing shops in North Conway : EMS and IME. Franconia climbers had their own scene at Skimeister's in North Woodstock. Additionally there was a group of AMC employees/climbers who were partial to Limmer's in Intervale - who at the time also sold some European climbing gear. This enviornment was about as different as you can imagine from today's climbing community. North Conway in 1972 had one fast food joint - Micky D's ... that's it. EBs, which would change everything, had just arrived on the scene. Pitons were still king, but some ex-pats from the UK were working at Outward Bound in ME and brought with them machine nuts - the sort of precursor to hexcentrics that Chouinard Equipment would introduce shortly. We were on the cusp of 'clean climbing'. If you were into aid climbing RR's were the boot to wear. They were stiff and not at all sticky, but some of the local talent was climbing 9 and 10s with them. It's fair to say that the Gunks were more well known than Mt Washington Valley in those 'halcyon days'.  

RAINSFORD ROUNDER CLIMBING ON THE 'YMC DIKE' CANNON CLIFF

GUSTAVO CLIMBING ON THE 'YMC DIKE' CANNON CLIFF

GUSTAVO APPROACHING THE CRUX OVERHANG ON THE 'YMC DIKE'

GUSTAVO PULLING THRU THE CRUX OVERHANG ON THE 'YMC DIKE', CANNON CLIFF

KIM SMITH IN FOGGY CONDITIONS ON 'SAMS SWAN SONG', CANNON CLIFF

ALBERT DOW, MICHAEL HARTRICH AND ALEC BEHR LOOKING FOR SOMETHING TO DO DURING THE ALMOST SNOWLESS WINTER OF 79/80.

DAVE WALTERS CLIMBING BELOW THE PIPE PITCH ON THE 'WHITNEY GILMAN', CANNON CLIFF FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE MTS, NH

DAVE WALTERS CLIMBING ABOVE THE PIPE PITCH ON THE 'WHITNEY GILMAN', CANNON CLIFF FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE MTS, NH

SPARKY MILEKIN ENJOYING SOME WIDE CRACK CLIMBING IN THE 'HALF MOON CRACK' ON VERTIGO 5.9 CANNON CLIFF, WHITE MTS, NH

CHRIS ELLMS JUGGING AT THE TOP OF THE 3RD PITCH OF THE 'DIRECT DIRECT' ON CANNON CLIFF FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE MTS, NH

CHRIS ELLMS GETTING STARTED ON THE 4TH PITCH OF THE 'DIRECT DIRECT' ON CANNON CLIFF FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE MTS, NH

RAINSFORD ROUNER JUGGING PITCH 2 ON THE 'STRYDER WALL' AT CANNON CLIFF FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE MTS, NH

MARY ERDEI PULLING OVER THE ROOF ON THE 2ND PITCH OF 'ODYSSEY' (5.10) ON THE CANNON SLABS FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE MTS, NH

MARY ERDEI CLIMBING ON THE 2ND PITCH OF 'ODYSSEY' (5.10) ON THE CANNON SLABS FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE MTS, NH

JIM BOHRINGER AND CHARLIE GUNN NEAR THE TOP OF 'SAMS SWAN SONG' 5.7 ON CANNON CLIFF FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE MTS, NH

CHRIS NOONAN NEAR THE TOP OF THE 1ST PITCH OF 'THE WRONG CRACK', DUET BUTTRESS CANNON CLIFF, FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE MTS, NH

KIM SMITH LEADING THE CRUX 1ST PITCH OF 'THE LAST UNICORN' 5.10, SOUTH BUTTRESS WHITEHORSE CLIFF, WHITE MTS, NH

CHRIS NOONAN PULLING THRU THE BULGE ON THE 2ND PITCH OF 'THE LAST UNICORN' SOUTH BUTTRESS, WHITEHORSE LEDGE, WHITE MTS, NH

MARY ERDEI CLIMBING ON PITCH 4 OF 'DOWN EAST', CANNON CLIFF WHITE MOUNTAINS, NEW HAMPSHIRE

MARY ERDEI MOVING SIDEWAYS ON THE CRUX MOVES OF 'DOWN EAST', CANNON CLIFF FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE MTS, NH

RAINSFORD ROUNDER LEADING THE 1ST PITCH OF THE 'LABYRINTH WALL' ON CANNON CLIFF FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE MTS, NH

RAINSFORD ROUNDER JUGGING ON THE 'LABYRINTH WALL' ON CANNON CLIFF FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE MTS, NH

JED ELIADES LEADING THE 2ND PITCH ON 'UNION JACK', CANNON CLIFF FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE MTS, NH

GARY KUEHN CLIMBING AT THE JUNCTION OF 'CLAUSTROPHOBIA' AND 'VERTIGO', CANNON CLIFF FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE MTS, NH

JED ELIADES CLIMBING OUT OF THE CAVE AT THE TOP OF THE 'HALF MOON CRACK' ON 'VERTIGO', CANNON CLIFF

BRIAN KUNZ CLIMBING THE 'RISING TRAVERSE' PITCH ON 'SAM'S SWAN SONG', CANNON CLIFF, WHITE MTS, NH

BRAIN KUNZ LEADING 'INFERNO' 5.8 ON WHITEHORSE LEDGE NORTH CONWAY, WHITE MOUNTAINS, NH

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