A TIMELINE OF TRIPS AND ADVENTURES

WIND RIVER RANGE - WIND RIVER PEAK

An early summer ascent of the southern most 13er

A good start to what was hopefully a long successful season in the Winds

WIND RIVER RANGE - WHISKEY PEAK

A long day hike at the northern end of the range

Limited by whatever was wrong with my left foot, I opted for this hike - my thinking being that I had to get out and do something.

NORTHERN WIND RIVER RANGE

Another visit to Titcomb / Indian Basins

A somewhat disappointing trip due to a nagging injury and some foul weather. Moral of the story is that pain killers are not vitamin pills.

NORTHERN ROCKIES SCENIC TOURS

July / August

In between the few backcountry adventures of 2023 I spent a fair amount of time on the road looping thru my favorite scenic regions, hoping each time for dramatic lighting and better than last time views. In Wyoming that mean various loop around the Tetons and Wind River Range, complimented by numerous crossing of Beartooth Pass into Montana. While in Montana I revisited Glacier Nat Park having not been there since 1975. Going to the Sun road is pretty impressive, but it's an old narrow road that is inundated with too many tourists mostly because well, it's a National Park. For my money Dead Indian Pass to Beartooth Pass is the finest alpine drive in the USA. Second place goes to White Mt / Bristlecone Hwy with it's amazing Sierra View vista - best done at sunrise in the spring when the High Sierra is still covered in winter snows.

ISLAND LAKE - WALL LAKE LOOP

The assumption after a year of fairly intense training and preparation was that I was fit and ready to go. A year ago that seemed like solid reasoning. This year it didn't quite play out that way. A 40+ lb pack w/ climbing gear had me on the back foot for five days. What it did was squelch any drive to push the boat out a bit further and go for some climbs that would call for a fairly aggressive pursuit of reasonable goals while moving thru a fairly long route thru the Island Lake - Wall Lake region. It could have been more, but what it was ended up being a very good warm up - and nothing more.

BIGHORNS - CLOUD PEAK

After what I would have to call a disappointing start to the season, I headed east to the Bighorns via a very scenic but convoluted route up over Beartooth Pass, the Red Grade Road and eventually up thru Tensleep Canyon to the trailhead. The idea was that the popular and easily accessible summit of Cloud Peak would get me back on track. It was easy and perhaps I should have done some additional exploring while in the Misty Moon Lake region, but I didn't so a quick trip up Cloud Peak only took 3 days before I headed back to the Winds and my rendezvous with Chuck, my brother-in-law from Mazama.

WIND RIVER RANGE - NEW FORK PLATEAU

A great week with my reliable and ready to go brother in law. This year we decided to up the anty a wee bit and do something approaching 50 miles in the Northern Winds. In the end we did a cross-country traverse of the New Fork Plateau with a twist. Rather than start in New Fork Canyon, we started at Green River Lake and after crosing the plateau, we ended up at Summit Lake. From there we opted for the simple return to Green River Lakes via the Highline Trail. Next year, we'll build on this and do something even more interesting.

WIND RIVER RANGE - PEAK LAKE AND BOW MT LOOP

A revisit to Titcomb Basin and Peak Lake after a 32 year absence.

INDIAN PEAKS - SOUTH ARAPAHO

Southeast Ridge of South Arapaho Peak

An easy and very popular day hike to one of the higher peaks in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. After a few days back up in Wyoming, I returned for a final sunrise scenic drive over Trail Ridge before heading south to Denver and eventually back to NH

HIGH SIERRA: MONO PASS - MT STARR

South Ridge

Always a good idea to get some easy altitude under your belt with a warmup upon arrival from lowly NH. A hike to Mono Pass is familiar ground, but I'd never been to the top of Starr Mt. Worth the effort particularly if you go by way of the South Ridge. The views from the top are excellent. The quick descent is down the chossy gravel fest on the west side, but I should have reversed the route and kept the quality factor at a higher level.

HIGH SIERRA: MT ACRODECTES

East Ridge

The first springtime adventure in the High Sierra since 2015. Long overdue. After a warmup hike/climb of Mt Starr above Mono Pass, it was time to spend some time in a region I had only briefly visited in 2014. A day trip to Sawmill Pass is probably done all the time. But from there I knew little or nothing about the Woods Lake Basin. A Peaks for Freaks trip report showed an awesome view of the North side of Mt Acrodectes. The TR reported that the East Ridge scramble was quite nice. So, with 3 nights of food I headed back up to Sawmill Pass - starting at 4:45am to beat the heat. Couldn't find a campsite below the pass so ended up going all the way over and down to a nice little tarn at about 11,000'.. From there I had a beautiful view of the area and the the peak itself.

HIGH SIERRA: MOUNT MILLS

up one side and down another

Have always wanted to climb Mills particularly after seeing it from the summit ridge of Abbot in 2012. Like others I would prefer to do the North Couloir but the approach is long. In this case I got my wish but having climbed the left hand East Face gully, I was not at all interested in descending the same way. That left few choices. Since I'd always wanted to see the Fourth Recess and it was only 9am when I summited, I decided to down climb the North Couloir and wrap around back to Mono Pass the long and scenic way. That it was. Left the truck at 3:30am and got back at 7:30pm. Sixteen miles / 16 hours. What a day.

HIGH SIERRA: MOUNT AGASSIZ

Northwest Face

Another long day climb though in this case it was the reverse of last week. Longer climb shorter hike. Still round trip to Bishop Pass and 2000' of climbing added up to a 12 hour day. Only flaw in an otherwise great day was the choice of descent. Once again I didn't want to downclimb the long snowy ascent. Instead I opted for trying to find a rocky ridge. But, from the top, the view of your choices is not clear. Long story short, I choose poorly. Way too far to the west in the choosy gullies. Ugh. Still, another great spring day in the High Sierra

HIGH SIERRA: MOUNT LYELL

Northwest Ridge

The last big effort of the 2021 season. Seems like May is already a distant memory now that the crowds, heat and bugs have arrived in the high country. On my long but scenic approach via Rush Creek / Spookey Canyon I lost count of the huge numbers of PCT thru hikers - some doing sections, others going for the full enchilada. One thing I did not see this entire season is another climber. Kind of odd. Anyway, the std route on Lyell is a real classic. As usual it seems at odds with the Secor description of the route rated at class 2-3. While the summit ridge is indeed class two, the fine solid rock found on the face just left of the upper col is not class 3. If it is, it's 3+ no fall climbing. Steep, solid and gifted with holds in all the right places. Most likely there are other ways to go, but the intuitive way was even marked by several small cairns. Down-climbing the route is definitely the crux. The view from the top is not to be missed.

NORTH CASCADES: MAPLE PASS

Maple Pass

With the heat dome closing in on the North Cascades Chuck and I pulled off a wonderful springtime ascent to Maple Pass. More or less normal to Heather Pass where conditions went from dry to full on snow cover. Conditions were excellent thanks to the early start. Snow didn't start to soften up until around 10:30 on our way back. Still alot of snow up high. Wonder how much will be left after the heat wave is over.

BIGHORNS: PENROSE CANYON & EXIT PASS

Connecting the Northern Solitude Trail via Exit Pass

Alot of off trail hiking is required to see the north side of the big peaks found in Cloud Peak Wilderness. The Solitude Trail is the logical point to start and finish this loop. Exit Pass connects the east and west aspects of the trail. The distance covered from Princess Falls to Exit Pass is where the excitement lies. Along the way I was able to explore Penrose Canyon and Loomis Lakes. All told a good loop that starts and ends at Bighorn Reservoir.

WIND RIVER RANGE: ARROWHEAD

A return to Arrowhead Peak after 38 years.

A somewhat ambitious plan to start with. That's only natural. In the end we spent five days in the Winds rather than seven But I did get up Arrowhead on the 3rd day. Day 4 we decided to start the hike out. A good decision as day 5 was not so nice, particularly that evening - seen from the comfort of downtown Pinedale. A one day storm, but I'm glad we weren't camped up above treeline when it blew through. There were so many people on the trail to Island Lake that any bears were probably elsewhere. Crowded is the only word to describe the Northern Winds this year.

INDIAN PEAKS: APACHE

Shoshoni to Apache Traverse

Shoshoni to Apache - the so called Kasparov Traverse. Great fun with something for everyone. I needed to keep moving and age being what it is, I only climbed the White Knight. Not having a rope means you do have to find a way around the short rap off the last Chessman to get to the saddle where the final climb of the north ridge begins. Not hard, just took a while to find it. The descent from the summiit of Apache to Isabelle Lake is long and tedious. Round trip took me about 10 hours.

BIGHORNS: WOOLSEY

South Ridge

An exciting, intricate ridge route on solid rock. It's proximity to the Innominate only adds to the setting. Careful but easy to follow raps down the north side of the peak is the standard way of getting off this dramatic peak. I would gladly do the long walk in to do this route again!

HIGH SIERRA: SHEPHERD CREST

McCabe Pass and Shepherd Crest

After a warm up hike to McGee Pass (LOL - 20 miles), Chuck and I went searching for a shorter adventure where we could bag some sort of peak. We settled on the Steelhead Lake region where we could stay at the lakes just up the trail and explore McCabe Pass etc. In doing so we saw that an ascent of Shepherd Crest would be a logical extension of something to do once you reach the pass. A smart choice. The view from the top is one of the best I've seen in this part of the High Sierra.

HIGH SIERRA: LECONTE DIVIDE

Six Pack of Passes - the LeConte Divide

This trip is something I've wanted to do for a long time. I'm glad I waited until this year. I had an incomplete vision of what was possible and what would work for me. Two trip reports helped. One from Peaks for Freaks and the other, a Flickr album by Craig Taylor opened my eyes to how much more there was than just getting to Hell for Sure Lake and Pass. Indeed.

HIGH SIERRA: UPPER KERN BASIN

Exploring the Upper Kern River Basin

With a good forecast and diminishing winds it seemed like a loop up to Harrison Pass from Lake S. America to have a go at Gregory's Monument - Stanford was just the ticket. What the forecast didn't get right was the winds. A 2 day blow came along just as I arrived in the barren open upper basin. The temps were cold made even more so by the strong gusty winds. I bailed for the JMT and a trip to Forester Pass. Then the weather self corrected and it got warm and calm. Go figure. All in all a rather disappointing way to end the season. I really missed doing a real climb. Once I was out, the skies remained clear but the winds returned. Was hoping to enjoy some cowboy camping up on the Gorge Road. Got one calm day. By the night of the 9th, my last night in California, the winds were roaring and Bishop was enveloped in one big dust storm.

MEDICINE BOW NF: MEDICINE BOW PK

Something of a tradition on day 3

On the evening of Day 2, 2000 miles from home I usually arrive at Veedewoo CG in WY. The next day, at least in the summer months I tend to do a acclimitization hike of Medicine Bow Pk. Getting to 12k is a good way to get started and has always served me well. Sometimes I do the full loop from Mirror Lake, sometimes the shorter 5 mile out and back from Mirror Lake but on the front side.

BIGHORN MTS: MISTY MOON LAKE

The beginning of a return to Wyoming

This year, after Medicine Bow Peak I added a short duration detour north to the Bighorns where I did a quick day hike into Misty Moon lake / pass. Sort of a recee for next year. Little did I know I would definitely want to come back in 2019 to climb Woolsey.

HIGH SIERRA: EMERSON

Mt Emerson Southeast Face

Given it's short approach and reputation as a fun climb, Emerson seemed like the perfect start to the fall campaign. I was feeling the need to actually climb while out here and really hadn't done so since 2014. I spent the day wondering if I was off route, and while I can imagine there are many ways to do this route, I did hit the all important notch up at about 12,700' where the fun begins.

HIGH SIERRA: MATTERHORN

Matterhorn - West Ridge

In 1983 after a big snow year, Mary Erdei and I came to the area to climb the North Arete. After an epic approach during which one of our dogs almost drowned as she got carried away in the ragging horse creek and almost disappeared into a snow hole, only to be snatched from the jaws of death at the last second we soberly carried on and setup camp beneath the climb. This was another route we did back then where all slides and for that matter most memories are lost in time. This year (2018) I came back with the intention of seeing more of the area and climbing the peak by a route I could comfortable solo. The standard SW slopes has no appeal to me and only recently I read a trip report of a more suitable alternative being the West Ridge from Burro Pass. With that in mind, I put together what I hoped would be a nice scenic route there and back. Warm days and cold nights were standard fare for the four and a half days this trip took.

HIGH SIERRA: STARLIGHT PEAK

Northwest Chute

It seems to me no resume of Sierra Climbing would be complete without doing a few of the 14ers along the Palisades crest. I'd done Thunderbolts West Ridge and the Swiss Arete on Sill back in 81 and 79 but have literally one slide to show for those two long ago adventures. Of all the "chute" climbs on the west side of the divide, it seemed like the Northwest Chute on Starlight had the most personality. Perhaps the West Face (5.4) of North Pal is a better option, but I could find zero beta on that route other than the sparse descriptions in various guides. So Starllight got the nod. Going over Thunderbolt Col on a really dry year makes almost no sense because you then need to drop down about 500' to find water. That experience was enough to convince me that after the climb I was going to return to Bishop Pass via the very scenic Knapsack Col. There is alot of beta on this route so I didn't have any issues with the route and near the top took the left hand option to reach the summit. I then climbed up a small pinnacle just SW of the Milk Bottle - one that is maybe 3-4 feet shorter in height and one I've never seen pics of climbers on the coveted boulder problem taken from. That was my summit. On the way down, the loose scree and gravel spoiled what was a pretty good route. I ended up doing 5 raps with a 7.7mm 50m rope. Note: album photo taken in May 2013

HIGH SIERRA: UNSETTLED WEATHER

Storms and Convict Canyon Hike

After Starlight I took my normal 3 days of rest, but as that came to an end 3-4 days of stormy weather arrived. I finally got a good day on Oct 5th and decided on a trip up Convict Canyon to Mildred and Dorothy Lakes. The extra effort to get up to the Dorothy lake is worth the effort as the view really opens up. The view of the north side of Red Slate and its appealling couloir is much better too. Even after all the rain, the notorious stream crossing at the old washed out bridge was quite casual. The trail itself may soon be a thing of the past as weather events have done tons of damage to what is a problematic trail to begin with. Still a fine day and well worth the effort.

HIGH SIERRA: RUSH CREEK RITTER RANGE

Intro to Ritter Range

With only a week to go before I was due to pull up stakes and head back to NH, there was time for one more adventure. After a false start thinking I wanted to go to Hell for Sure Pass over on the West Side (I did drive all the way up to Courtright Reservior), I came back and settled on plan B. That turned out to be an intro to the Ritter Range and Minarets. Knowing the shortest way in there was to use the now familiar Rush Creek approach, I came up with a Summit Lake loop. Lots of ups and downs along with some aggressive camping restrictions, but still a nice intro to the area.

YOSEMITE - MAMMOTH

Yosemite - Kings Canyon & Sequoia Nat Parks - Mammoth area hikes

This time around Bets drove out with me and we had a great 2 weeks of exploring and relaxing in the Yosemite, Sequoia NP and Mammoth regions. We went out to Clouds Rest, Moro Point and Duck Pass.

HIGH SIERRA: MCGEE PASS

McGee Pass Trail

After two weeks with Betsy wandering around the Sierra and introducing her to places she hadn't seen (the west side in particular), she flew home to the real job and I settled on doing this long 20 mile round trip day hike. Throw in 4000 feet of gain and you can bet my tank was empty when I got back to the trailhead. Big cloud buildup but at best at bit of a spritz from time to time. Lots of snow, bugs and wildflowers.

HIGH SIERRA: MONO PASS - SILVER DIVIDE

A Loop Around Silver Divide

The idea here was to use Mono Pass as a way to get to and cross the Silver Divide twice. On the way in I would use 'Shout of Relief' Pass on the SHR to cross over to the north side and after connecting to the JMT would cross back over via Silver Pass. After that I would have the option of getting back to Rock Creek in one of three ways: 'Half Moon Pass', Mono Pass or the longer but more interesting 2nd Recess to Gabbot Pass and on over the Divide at Cox Col. In the end I choose the way I'd come in mostly because I was tired and wasn't sure what kind of snow conditions to expect on Cox Col. I did not have an axe or micro spikes with me. As boring as that decision sounds it certainly was not. If fact it ended in high drama - weather wise that is.

HIGH SIERRA: VIRGINIA LAKES

Day Hike to Summit Lake

Its been quite windy lately so pick your poison. After this and that I decided a quick trip to summit lake would work (10 miles RT). A second look at the map revealed a pass that had to be crossed to get there. So, good workout. A bit rocky on the west side of the pass. But that's just me and my fused ankles. Wind was stout to start but moderated by the end of the day. Fuzzy clouds gave way to a very nice afternoon.

HIGH SIERRA: WEST SIDE SEQUOIA

Crescent Meadow to Nine Lakes Basin

A seriously over ambitious plan was quickly reconciled with reality and morphed into a nice 5 day trip to Nine Lakes Basin and back. Nights 2 and 3 were fabulous examples of being in the right place at the right time. The original plan would have seen me in the forest both these nights. I'm felling pretty lucky about that. The lesson learned on this trip was that I need to lighten my load if I'm going to keep doing these trips.

HIGH SIERRA: A Loop Around Mount Lyell

Donohue, Vogelsang, Blue Lake and Clinch Passes

Sept 2016. Started off the Fall season with a long 65 mile loop around Mt Lyell. Didn't know much about this region but after seeing some images of Twin Island Lakes I wanted to find a way to see this and other parts of Yosemite and Ansel Adams Wilderness. In hindsight I'm not sure the best way to start this loop was at Silver Lake. The trail up to past the reserviors to the JMT provides quick access, but that's about it. I spent the 1st night just south of Donohue Pass, the 2nd on the south shore of Evelyn Lake, the 3rd at the Lyell Fork of the Merced River, the 4th below Blue Lakes, and the 5th at the top of the North Fork of the San Joaquin River. After crossing Clinch Pass I spent the 6th and last night at Rogers Lakes before re-connecting with the Rush Creek Trail the next morning.

HIGH SIERRA: Piute - Goddard - Darwin

Piute, Goddard and Darwin Canyons Loop

Sept 2016. Next up was a somewhat convoluted attempt to see more of the North Lake to South Lake terrain that I have such fond memories of (1981). Also wanted to see some new terrain so I added a trip up Goddard Canyon with a exit back to the JMT via the north fork of Goddard Creek and Davis Lake. A comfortable 4 night trip with a serious dislike of the rough conditions over the last couple of miles of the Piute Pass trail as it approaches it's end at the JMT. Darwin Bench and Canyon was as expected a wonderful place to be. The real surprise was how nice the terrain leading up to and around Davis Lake was. Alot less talus and scree than I had been prepared for.

HIGH SIERRA: Called on Account of Pain

An attempt to get to the GWD via Forester Pass

Plan was to go do Thunder by way of Kearsarge / Forester passes and to see Picket Creek to the west of the GWD. After a very productive 1st day, I camped in the last group of stunted trees before the JMT begins it's final rise to Forester Pass. That night I got violently sick with abdominal cramps all night long. Completely dehydrated and exhausted by morning. A bit confused as to what was happening so took 2 casual days to walk back to Onion Valley.

HIGH SIERRA: The High Passes

Day Hike to Baxter Pass

Having enjoyed the hike to Sawmill I was hoping that Baxter would offer up a similar experience. Well sort of but not really. Rocky, rough and other than the alpine looking spur off of Mary Austin and Diamond Peak, a fairly long day without alot of drama. These long day hikes always mean you spend most of your day moving along in what I call the non 'magic hour' when the lighting for photography is less than optimal

HIGH SIERRA: Bullfrog Lake

Day Hike to Kearsarge Pass and Bullfrog Lake

A quick trip to Kearsarge Pass is one of the better ways to see how much snow is left in the backcountry. Extended it a bit walking out to the JMT. Should have gone to Glen Pass - there was plenty of time.

HIGH SIERRA: Mt Muir

Std West Face Route

Another snowy April left me looking for a day route that would help with conditioning and tag a summit. Most of the low hanging fruit had been plucked. A return to the Whitney region turned out to be just the ticket. Hadn't been there since 1981. The std route on Muir is a shadow of the big east face, but still a worthy route as the summit block contains some nice stout bouldering which to me seemed more 4th class than not - at least the way I went.

HIGH SIERRA: Baker Lake

Baker Lake and Skyhaven Pass

Ramping up for a wet spring, the first of several storms blew thru adding to my downtime. After a 3 day affair I got going again with a scenic trip to Baker Lake via the North Fork of Big Pine Creek. Plan was to top Skyhaven at sunrise. Could have worked, but it didn't. A mostly cloudy sunrise gave way to fierce winds at the pass and little or no reason to scramble up to the summit given the grey cold skies. Settled for a consolation prize by camping at the edge of the drop back in the Big Pine Creek. Enough snow was found to take care of water issues. The 3rd day sunrise was of course perfect.

HIGH SIERRA: Tuttle Creek

Tuttle Creek - South Fork

Ramping up for a wet spring, the first of several storms blew thru adding to my downtime. After a 3 day affair I got going again with a scenic trip to Baker Lake via the North Fork of Big Pine Creek. Plan was to top Skyhaven at sunrise. Could have worked, but it didn't. A mostly cloudy sunrise gave way to fierce winds at the pass and little or no reason to scramble up to the summit given the grey cold skies. Settled for a consolation prize by camping at the edge of the drop back in the Big Pine Creek. Enough snow was found to take care of water issues. The 3rd day sunrise was of course perfect.

HIGH SIERRA: Palisades South Fork

Finger Lake

May 2015. After the sucker storm I was starting to lose faith that I would get anything done this season. Snow was melting but it had accumulated to an alarming degree in the shady zones. What to do. In the end I settled for yet another hiking trip. This time I went to Finger Lake, not having been there since 1976. Went thinking I might go up to South Fork Pass, but didn't.

HIGH SIERRA: Tablelands

Tablelands to Lion Lake Pass

Sept 2015. After the stormy spring left me feeling like I hadn't accomplished much I made plans for a fall trip where I could experience the range without concern for snow. Arriving in Lone Pine after the drive over from Vegas, I found the whole Owens Valley full of haze and smoke. Next morning I drove around to the west side and made the hot drive up to Wolverton and what I hoped would be better vistas south and west of the Rough Fire. Other than a 24hr stretch of haze and grey skies, things worked out pretty well.

HIGH SIERRA: On the Tourist Path

Snow storms and Fall Foliage

Oct 2015 - While it may have precluded some high peak ascents, the snow storm the first week of Oct added some great potential to both on oncoming fall color and the generally dry look of the Sierra in the fall.

HIGH SIERRA: Reflection Lake

Longley Pass and Pilot Knob

After the Tablelands adventure and a week of stormy weather, there was enough time left for a five day somewhere. With all the high peaks showing a winter look it seemed fitting to finally take the long walk into see Reflection Lake and upwards to Longley Pass

HIGH SIERRA: The High Passes

Day Hike to Sawmill Pass

Another year. Similar start. Long hikes to acclimatize. The trail to Sawmill Pass starts low and comes in at 20 miles. Cool temps all day. This trail doesn't get alot of credit but I thought it was a nice outing and found it alot nice than Baxter Pass which I did a year later.

HIGH SIERRA: University Peak

Northwest Face

What started out as yet another trip to Kearsarge Pass turned into something far nicer. I happened to have brought ice tools with me so one look at the NW side of University Peak was more than enough temptation to veer left and go climbing. Good route but a tedious descent down from University Pass back to Onion Valley.

HIGH SIERRA: Mt Russell

East Ridge

This climb was never high on my list of things to do, but given that April had been a snowy month, it made sense to go here while giving the snow a chance to melt. Didn't get the classic clear sunrise on day 2 but other than that it was a fun route with enough snow to give it a little spice.

HIGH SIERRA: Tyndall

Northeast Face

Arrived at the pass without a real agenda. Since I'm always keen to avoid boulder hopping in favor of snow, I saw right away a nice line on Tyndall -to the right of the 'rib' - that would be exactly that.

HIGH SIERRA: Mt Gould

Kearsarge Pass -Mt Gould

Coming from NH, a couple of warm up hikes is always a good thing. Included here are the two hikes done to get acclimatized. Palisade Glacier to 12,000' and Mt Gould to 13,000'. Two years ago in the big winter/spring of 2011 I'd been blown off of Gould as I started up from the pass. Bit anti-climatic this time around, though the bouldering at the top was quite nice.

HIGH SIERRA: Langley

Langley - New Army Pass

After the storm this trip seemed like a good thing to do while waiting for the new snow to melt. Just a long walk when all was said and done ... but a nice one too.

HIGH SIERRA: Bear Creek Spire

Northeast Face

While Langley was fun, it was time to do some actual climbing. Popular peak so there were some other climbers camped at Dade Lake. Clear cold nights. About a half inch of new ice formed over my water source each night. Climbing was fun. Bit of route finding to keep the grade under control.

HIGH SIERRA: Palisades

Backside Loop Hike

Additional segments of the Sierra High Route. In this case Bishop Pass to Knapsack Col, to Potluck Pass to Palisades Lakes to Leconte Canyon and back up thru Dusy Basin to South Lake. Good weather the first half of the loop. Bit more fickle after that. Didn't do any climbing, which was a mistake.

HIGH SIERRA: Humphreys

Northwest Ridge

With a little over a week before Betsy and family arrived I needed to get in a few more climbs before the tempo changed. This peak has been on my tick list for a long time. With section of snow all the way up the route, it was far more interesting than it would have been without. Glad I brought a 120' rope for the numerous raps I made to speed up the descent. Nice thunderstorm 2nd afternoon. I had already decided to move down to a nice site I know just off the Piute Pass trail. Got there just as it started to come down in earnest. Really nice sunset afterwords.

HIGH SIERRA: Winchell

Southeast Ridge

Bit of a walk up but you can at least keep it aesthetic by looking for harder ways to stay on solid rock. Hot spell moving thru the area that weekend so the snow barely froze. Post holing up from Sam Mack Meadow. Finally got solid up around 12+. Was really slushly on the way down. Walked all the way back to the old walk in campground on the north fork trail that afternoon. Nice to have a picnic table to sit at while killing time.

HIGH SIERRA: Bishop Creek

3 Day trip to Sailor Lake

After some quality time with the fam where we did some nice hikes @ tioga, mammoth lakes and little lakes valley, Bets and I had just enough time to do a quick 3 day before heading back to NH. Spent first night at Sailor Lake and the 2nd at Blue. An early departure the next morning got us to the Burger Barn in Bishop in time for lunch.

HIGH SIERRA: Warm Up Hikes

Bishop and Mono Pass Hikes

Two warm-up acclimatization hikes before the real show began. Casual start for Bishop Pass. For Mono I started in the dark. Really cold at the pass until I found some sun and a place to sit out of the wind.

HIGH SIERRA: Thompson

Harrington Couloir

First of several day climbs. Long days but a good way to get in shape. Nice route. Long summit ridge. Hadn't thought much about how to get down. The only obvious descent seemed to be the via the North Ridge.

HIGH SIERRA: Lamarck

North Face

Second of several day climbs. Easy day climb as the distances involved are less. Interesting approach. Arrived at the lakes at sunrise and found a very reasonable way thru the big boulders above the last meadow. Climb was somewhat melted out at the top.

HIGH SIERRA: Abbot

Std East Face Route

After the storm, I did this, the third of several day climbs. Nice route. Beautiful sunrise approach. Fair amount of new snow gave it the alpine look and covered all the loose choss on the std route traverse out to the shoulder. Bit spicy climbing back down thru that section on the descent

HIGH SIERRA: Haeckel

North Face / N Ridge

This route comes with a longer approach so I did it as a casual 3 day trip. Great campsites above Hungry Packer and at Topsy Turvy on the way out. Thought I was doing the NW RIdge, and though I am still not totally convinced of what is what, I fell like the route I did was the North Ridge. One of the best routes I've ever done. Little bit of everything on a classic peak. Only wish it was longer. Time of year is important here. The alpine flavor means this is definitely a spring time route.

HIGH SIERRA: Gilbert

Engram Couloir

Had long wanted to repeat this route. Walking by it on the way to Thompson only solidified that desire. Snow was melting fast but there was still time for one more snow route before the approaches become tedious piles of scree..

HIGH SIERRA: Sierra High Route

7 day - Loop Hike

A high quality loop starting at Piute Pass going north to Granite Park, over Italy Pass, thru Bear Lakes and up to Feather Pass where I made a quick trip up the SW Ridge of Feather. I then continued down to a shoulder above Merriam Lake where I spent my 5th night. Very early start the next day got me down to French Canyon before the bugs woke up. From there it was a race back up Piute Creek to get above treeline and the swarms of mosquitos. I spent the last night just west of the pass listening to the coyotes all over the valley. Perfect weather. Only saw four people - all at Feather Pass.

HIGH SIERRA: Hiking and Backpacking

Dusy Basin - Long Lake

After the loop hike Betsy arrived and we did a number of nice day hikes followed by a 3 day trip to Dusy Basin and back. Hot, cold, windy and calm. A little bit of everything with the well known hordes of mosquitoes in Dusy.Basin thrown in for extra measure.

HIGH SIERRA: Independence Peak

North East Gully

I arrived about a week before Rob did, so did some wamr up hikes to get acclimatized. Rob showed with skiis which was ideal for the big snow year of 2011. So, first few adventures focused on that. Ankle issues being what they are, I don't ski anymore so just plunge stepped down chasing after Rob who was long gone.

HIGH SIERRA: Basin Mountain

East Couloir

Another ski day. Longer approach made longer because we couldn't get the Honda 'E' close to the trailhead. Decent climbing to get to the summit. Snow was not so good.

HIGH SIERRA: Dade

North Face

Pretty much the perfect day. Not the best conditions as we sort of swam up the route. But that added some spice to the climbing as we were climbing without a rope or gear.

HIGH SIERRA: Lone Pine Peak

North Ridge

With all the beta now available, I thought I had enough to do this route alone. No rock shoes, no helmet, no gear rope or harness. Perhaps an unskillful choice. But doing it alone on a snowy year in Trangos was intense. Route finding was as challenging as the climbing. Turns out I think Secor's description is the most accurate. Started early and was back at camp by lunch.

HIGH SIERRA: MT POWELL

North Face

Return to the Sierra. Lots of snow that spring. This was a good warm up and a visit to a place I hadn't seen before. Fairly low angle slopes on the north face, but still a nice place to be.

HIGH SIERRA: Royce Lakes

Royce Lakes via Co-Co La

Still want to do the big gully on Feather. Just wasn't going to happen this time around. Conditions were terrible. Warm and soft. Jim and I stuck around for a couple of days before post holing back down to Honeymoon Lake.

HIGH SIERRA: Conness & Dana

Day Hikes Tioga Pass region

Conness was a bust for me. Long walk as the road to Saddleback Lake was still closed. Started raining by noon. Cleared off and the next day we had a very nice day doing the std walk up on Dana. There was still enough snow to keep it interesting.

HIGH SIERRA: Goethe NE Peak

NW Face

Really small window in an otherwise miserable stretch of weather. Fair amount of new but stable snow. Lakes were still frozen so the approach was quite simple. Climb while short was fun. Had hoped to climb Goethe from the north side but conditions weren't that good and there was plenty of evidence of natural avalanches all over the cirque. This climb was definitely the safe bet.

BEARTOOTHS: GRANITE PEAK

Granite Peak the Hard Way

Want to see the best this mountain has to offer. do a loop up huckleberry and out via the FTD. Oh yeah, and you get to take your kit with you most of the way.

N CASCADES: TORMENT BASIN

A rather lame attempt to climb Torment w/ Kim Smith

Off and on rain showers and our lack of motivation resulted in a half hearted attempt on the standard route to Torment. The lack of any redeeming features or rock quality was enough to make even that not something we wanted to finish.

STUART RANGE: DRAGONTAIL PEAK

Backbone Arete w/ Kim Smith

Done in a long hot day during a major heat wave with forest fires in the area. Quality does not compare to what is found on Stuart.

THE BEARTOOTHS: MT COWEN

NE Arete

After a week of bad weather everywhere, Eric Scranton and I ran out of time (or he did to be more accurate). Back in Bozeman he and his then girlfriend Bobbie recommended Cowen as a good thing I could do alone. Bobbie's only comment was that I should make note of the fact that this region was on the edge of griz habitat. Okay.

CASCADES: GLACIER PEAK

Frostbite Ridge attempt w/ Betsy Harrison - solo ascent a week later

Two late summer visits to one of the more isolated volcanos in the Cascades. The first attempt was more memorable, the 2nd was an anti-climatic success.

N CASCADES: MT RUTH

Standard Route from Hannegan Pass w/ Betsy Harrison

Fun route on a pretty peak with some great camping just below treeline - a great introduction to snow and glacier travel for Betsy

GARIBALDI PROV PARK / THE WEDGE

Solo climb of the classic NE Ridge

Looking for an alpine peak with a legitimate snow/ice route in the summer is not all that easy. In the states, its darn near impossible. In Canada ... well that's another story.

N CASCADES: SLEESE

NE Buttress w/ Eric Scranton

Yet another BC classic with a deceptively spooky approach thru the somewhat chaotic pocket glacier that varies from year to year. A one day route for some, but for most of us and ideal 2day climb with water and a big ledge mid-way up the buttress

WIND RIVER RANGE

Hot and Smokey at Middle Fork Lake w/ Betsy Harrison

The summer of 2000 was a confusing time. Temps in the 90's in Jackson Hole, something was clearly wrong. No better in the Winds. Throw in some local forest fire activity and it made for an alltogether different trip.

RED ROCKS

w/ Kim Smith

Only got in two days before heading over to JTree, but they were good days and a good intro to the area for Kim

LA POMME D'OR - LA MALBAIE QUE

A classic Quebec ice climb w/ Earl Alderson

Well worth the long drive to La Malbaie .... even if it rains all day on the way up

CASCADES: MT HOOD

A guided ascent of the standard route

Also a gig for me shooting the trip for Outdoor Explorer w/ Steve Madden

NEPAL: ATTEMPT BARUNTSE

An attempt that never really got going.

More of a great trek than a serious climbing trip. A huge storm at the start of the fall season made for trouble in all sorts of ways.

CASCADES

Springtime climbing in OR and WA

Various adventures in good and bad weather.

CAN ROCKS: ASSINIBOINE

Back a year later w/ Dave Mention, Betsy Harrison & Rob and Sue Garneau

After being somewhat unprepared for full on alpine conditions the year before, we returned the next year with Rob, Sue and Betsy joining us. Again we had the hut to ourselves until the last night.

NORTH CASCADES

Hikes, scenics an a climb w/ Betsy Harrison

After Assiniboine we met Eric in Sedro Woolley where I promptly got very sick the next morning. It lasted all day and I ended up spending a bunch of time getting tests done in Pasco to find out why. Eventually we got back on track and spent a week back in the park before heading east to City of the Rocks where we meet up with my little sister and her family.

CAN ROCKS: STURDEE

An introduction to the Assiboine region w/ Dave Mention

My interest in Assiniboine began when I reconnected with Dave Mention who I had lost track of after our trip to Gasherbrum II in 1991. He was keen to get back out there and I had always wanted to do more stuff with him. An idea became a plan.

CANADIAN ROCKIES: DAY HIKES

Day hikes along the Icefields Parkway & in the Kananaskis

After the long walk out from Magog Lake, Dave departed for home. Meanwhile, the good weather continued, so I stuck around. I spent some time doing some simple day hikes in the area.

N CASCADES: ATTEMPT CHALLENGER

An attempt from Perfect Pass w/ Chip Cole

Sometimes described as the "perfect" climb in the North Cascades, an ascent of Mt Challenger is more than just a climb.

RED ROCKS

w/ Betsy Harrison

After visits to Squamish, Smith and the City, we spent the rest of our vacation time here.

KATAHDIN

A perfect week in the park w/ Dave Goodman, Eric Scranton and Steve Amstudz

Skied the length of the park in 3 days with light packs. The rangers moved our climbing gear most of the way to Chimney Pond. We then got to stay in the better crew cabin. Then we climbed and skied for two more days before heading out.

PAKISTAN: ATTEMPT MASHERBRUM

An attempt with Eric Olson, Gary Kuehn and Scott Porter

Where everything that can go wrong does go wrong.

JOSHUA TREE

Two weeks at Joshua Tree

Blown south by storms and snow we arrived at JTree hoping for some relief. This was our first visit so the goal was to see as much of the park as time permitted. We particularly wanted to get out to the Astro Domes. The only time we didn't climb was when we went into town and got a motel room to watch the election returns. Back to the crags early the next day. We meet up with John & Ron early on so hooked up with them often during our stay.

RED ROCKS

w/ Betsy Harrison

An intro to Red Rocks

THE WAPTA TRAVERSE

An introduction to Canadian Hut to Hut skiing

Almost perfect conditions in early april on the classic hut traverse in the Can Rocks. Dave Goodman and I were working for Backcountry Magazine. Accompanying us as our guide was a local ER doctor from Banff. Once Chris realized we could make turns with a pack on we got the deluxe tour including things like Vulture Col and a trip up Mt Daly on our final day. The three of us had a great four days. Only wish it could have lasted longer.

PAKISTAN: LATOK PEAKS BASECAMP TREK

w/ Betsy, Dawn and Rich

Part 1 of our honeymoon in the Karakoram

PAKISTAN: GONDOGORO TREK

w/ Betsy, Dawn and Rich

Part 2 of our honeymoon in the Karakoram

KATAHDIN

Wind in the Willows - The Armadillo Buttress

Three great pitches way off the ground, protected by a problematic approach ...

ACADIA NAT PARK

A brieft one day visit.

After Katahdin we drove all night to get here for one fine day of climbing before the weather, which had been great, finally turned against us.

ROCK AND ROAD

16 days in Californa w/ Eric Olson and Rob Garneau

Red Rocks to the Needles to Tuolumne to Bishop and back to Vegas. Oh yeah and some beer was consumed.

ELK RANGE

North Maroon Bell and Pyramid Peak w/ Chip Cole

An amazing place with all sorts of opportunities, marred only by its popularity and proximity to Aspen

SAN JUAN MTS

Chicago Basin Ruby Lake Loop w/ Betsy Harrison

Third trip to this wonderful region, marred somewhat by the presence of a NOLS camp in Upper Ruby Creek Basin. We also had a nice day doing Eulos.

CAN ROCKS: ATTEMPT MOUNT SIR DOUGLAS

An attempt on the East Ridge w/ Mike Keating

A humbling introduction to the uncertainties of climbing on limestone in the Canadian Rockies.

WIND RIVER RANGE: AMBUSH & BOLLINGER

Ambush and Bollinger w/ Mike Keating

Bollinger is one of the 3 best climbs I've done in the winds. The other two are the 'West Face Dihedral on Fremont Peak' and the 'West Face of Lost Temple Spire'. Only the Fremont climb is in the guide book. The other two we never reported.

PAKISTAN: ATTEMPT BROAD PEAK

An alpine style attempt on the Std West Face Route

The last of the cheap excursions to Asia. A really great trip that demonstrated once again how weather controls the show and you're just along for the ride.

UTAH - BUCKSKIN AND PARIA CANYONS

Another Buckskin - Paria Canyon 3 day loop

Such a great setting that we did it two years in a row. Perhaps different now that the region has become so popular.

UTAH - COLORADO PLATEAU

Getting to know the Plateau Part 3

Early 90s was still a quiet time on the plateau. My guess is that it has changed dramatically since then.

TETONS CLIMBING

Winter climbing in the Tetons

Last thing we did on that great 6 weeks in the Tetons was to skin up into Garnet Canyon for some climbing. The Grand was getting plenty of attention. Getting up early would have helped - ended up over in the South Fork on Cloudveil and Spaulding.

TETONS SKIING

Backcountry Skiing in the Tetons

Pretty good conditions and low avalanche hazard the entire time we were in the area. Could not ask for more. There were some locals who we know before they moved out west, so we never lacked for skiing partners.

ALASKA RANGE - RUTH GORGE

Bad weather in the Ruth Gorge

Expecting the same good weather as we had in 1990, we were rewarded with alot of snow and plenty of downtime in the Ruth. We waited in town for a couple of days before we could fly. We got dropped off in the gorge at the beginning of the short weather window which only lasted two days. We could have used one more.

ALASKA RANGE: ATTEMPT DENALI

More bad weather on Denali

Part 2 of our 1992 trip. After the hop over to the Kahiltna, the weather pattern never really settled down. We made slow progress to 14k and after one day of rest headed off to the Upper West Rib on what was the best day of the trip. The next day we made it to the top of the Orient Express before winds drove us down the West Butt and out of harms way.

UTAH - BUCKSKIN AND PARIA CANYONS

Down Buckskin and back up Paria Canyon

First time down this classic 3 day hike. Just enough water, but not too deep. Even needed to use a short rope at one point. Best thing was we had it all to ourselves.

UTAH - ESCALANTE CANYONS

Part 2 of our exploration of the Colorado Plateau

Stayed a little longer this time. After Buckskin/Paria we went back to exploring the Escalante region until it was time to head to Santa Fe.

PAKISTAN: ATTEMPT GASHERBRUM 2

An attempt on G2 - the fun never stops

The more I think about this trip, the more I am so totally amazed and grateful for the extraordinary effort put in by Dave Mention to make it possible for all of us to go on this memorable journey to the other side of the world. We came close to tagging the summit, but as the years go by it seems to me it's the journey itself that i grow more fond of.

UTAH - ESCALANTE CANYONS

An intro to the Escalante Region of Utah

Early 90s was still a quiet time on the plateau. My guess is that it has changed dramatically since then. Betsy and I came here three Octobers in a row, before our interests moved elsewhere. We started this trip with a quick trip to Wilson, WY and then headed south to the Wasatch and eventually to Moab.

COLORADO - SAN JUAN MTS

The mountain part of our 3 week tour of the West

After the Escalante adventure we moved over to Colorado and meet up with family in Ouray. We did a bit of peak bagging, cragging and an auto tour over one of the high passes. After that we were just about out of time and needed to get back to Denver for our flight home.

ALASKA RANGE: ATTEMPT MT HUNTINGTON

An attempt on West Face w/ Mark Whiton

My first and only attempt at what used to be termed 'Super Alpine'. A stunningly beautiful peak in the heart of the Alaska Range.

ALASKA RANGE - DENALI

A ten day round trip up the Butt where the weather was indeed our best friend.

After our attempt on the West Face of Huntington, we jumped over to the Kahiltna to hook up with Tad Pfeiffer for a delightful 10 day round trip stroll, made easy by almost perfect weather. We were joined in the latter stages by our Canadian friend Mario Bilodeau.

TETONS

A trip to the Lower Saddle and another up the E Ridge of Owen

To the saddle with Mark Whiton, Koven Route on Owen by myself and also some local scenics.

BUGABOOS

A whole bunch of time in the Bugs with Guy Johnson and Sue McCowen

Sort of an intro to alpine rock climbing for Guy and Sue. We had pretty good luck with the weather and did a bunch of fine climbs. Broke it into two parts as Sue had a real job and couldn't stay as long as Guy. Back then it was still okay to camp on the Vowell side of Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col. Oh those were the days.

N FACE OF MT ATHABASCA

Just another roadside attraction along the Icefields Parkway

Take a number if you would please. Temps were warming up fast. Almost too warm, but we squeezed in this climb before the freezing level went way way up. After that we spent some time around Edith Cavell and Robson. Too warm to do anything but enjoy the view.

CAN ROCKS: BERG LAKE

Too warm to climb

After Athabasca and the day hike.to Edith Cavell, Guy and I decided to fly into the Berg Lake area, and hike out from there. Wanted to see the Emperor Face side of the Mt. Climbers were saying it was so warm the N Face was slush.

WIND RIVER RANGE

Peak Lake - Titcomb Loop including Tower 1 Couloir w/ Guy Johnson

After our long stay in the Bugaboos and Can Rocks, Guy and I headed south for one last adventure in the Winds - a tour of the Peak Lake area.

KATAHDIN

Return to Baxter State Park

After an 8 year hiatus, it was time to spend some more time in the Park. This years team: Dave Goodman, Gary Kuehn, Saran Taylor, Jeff Newsome and myself. The news we got upon arrival at Chimney Pond was that a couple of climbers had triggered an avalanche on the CIlley-Barber route. They were safe, but the Park authorities closed all the gullies to climbing. We were left we plenty to do as we still had access to the Pamola Ice Cliffs, skiing low down in the various bowls and of course a chance to do the classice ridge loop up the Cathedral Trail, over all the peaks in the South Basin, and down the Dudley Trail off of Pamola. In the end, that's exactly what we did. Most of it in really good weather.

BUGABOOS: ATTEMPT NORTH HOWSER TOWER

An attempt of All Along the Watchtower w/ Dale Navish

Unlike the 81 attempt which barely got off the ground before stonefall drove us off the Rowell route, this time we decided to have a go at All Along the Watchtower. Things went well until half way thru the 2nd day when Dale took a fall and tweaked the tendon in a finger on his right hand. That kind of spooked him and any interest he had in continuing. We were short of water and would have certainly run out before the top. I was keen to continue and for once I didn't want to bail. We rapped, found a ledge and the next day got back to the hut via Bill's Pass. I still think about this one alot.

MT RAINIER

Regular route w/ Dale Navish and Gary Kuehn

A weekend sprint and a brush with the law. That would be the two things I remember most about an August 89 climb of the regular route (DC) on Mt Rainier.

COAST RANGE - MT WADDINGTON

Bravo Glacier Route w/ Dale Navish & Gary Kuehn

After such a great summer in 88 it seemed logical to turn it up a notch in 89. What was needed was a trip ... a bigger peak. Waddington seemed like a logical choice. Joining Dale and I this year was our friend from the Dartmouth Ice Lab - Gary Kuehn. When asked what he did at the lab, Gary replied, "I break ice".

TETONS

Direct Exum and NW Couloir Middle w/ Dale Navish

After Waddington Gary left for other commitments while Dale and I headed for the Tetons. We hauled some gear up the Jackson Hole Mt Guides basecamp, and as there were no clients there, we got to stay in the deluxe vinyl tent. Great weather the whole trip. On our way out of Garnet Canyon.we took a short detour so we could do Irene's Arete.

WIND RIVER RANGE

W Face Lost Temple Spire w/ Dale Navish

Couldn't get enough of this route and was keen to have Dale do it too. This was the last adventure of our big western tour that started back in July. A couple days after we left they got 10" of snow

TAJIKISTAN - FANSKIE MOUNTAINS

16 Days of classic 3rd world adventure

There were two parts to the trip .... a trek into the Fanskie mountains capped off with an alpine climb on the NW Face of Pik Energia. The second half was designed to offer some whitewater rafting. Adventure as we all know, starts when you throw away the script.

WASATCH RANGE

Snowbird to Bell Canyon Traverse

When I lived in SLC, I loved the Wasatch backcountry. Even after I moved back east I came back a few more times as I still had friends living there. After the tragic death of Jay Wilson and the Whitons move to Wyoming in '91, I never went back.

SAN JUAN MTS

Sneffels and Chicago Basin

The better part of a week split between a quick trip up the easy side of Sneffels and five nights on a loop up thru Chicago Basin and out via Ruby Creek.

MT STUART

North Ridge w/ Dave Goodman

Done in perfect weather in a not so normal fashion. Up and down in a day from the standard bivy site. Climbing without bivy kit made the route alot more enjoyable.

MT OLYMPUS

A backcountry ski trip into the heart of the park.

The truism that all that snow in the Olympics could only result from a lot of bad weather became the exception as we had a perfect mid july week in the park. With our local guide and friend Steve Barnett, Dave Goodman and I got a great intro tour of the summer skiing possibilities in the range.

FORBIDDEN

Northwest Face w/ Dave Goodman

I spent alot of time in the North Cascades during the Summer of 88. One of the best things I did was the NW Face of Forbidden Peak with Dave Goodman. We had been around for awhile and wanted to do one more alpine climb before going our own ways.

NORTH CASCADES

Backpacking with my siblings

After Dave left for home I spent 10 days hiking and backpacking with my little sister MaryAnn, her husband Chuck and my older brother Chip. Chuck, MAC and I started with an overnight up at HIdden Peak, We followed that up with a day hike to Maple Pass and finished once Chip had joined us with a 4 day trip into Itswoot Ridge / Bachelor Meadows. All told, I was in the Cascades July 13th until August 7th. The only bad weather came during the last few days.

BUGABOOS

Bugaboo Spire - Midnight Route - w/ Mark Whiton and Dale Navish

Dale and I arrived in the Bugs intent on taking a trip up the Midnight Route. When Mark arrived we became a threesome and had a great time on the route. It was a big intro for Dale doing a route this big. He lead the last pitch to the bivy on the NE Ridge and got there just about midnight. I think this was the 2nd ascent. Weather went south after that, but we stuck around for a few more days before heading over to Lake Louise.

N FACE OF MT FAY

Chouinard Route w/ Mark Whiton and Dale Navish

After our time in the Bugs, it only made sense to move east to the Can Rocks for a go at some of the classics over there.

MT ROBSON

Mt Robson w/ Dale Navish

Thinking of Jay. After Jay's death the year before, I couldn't help thinking of him when Dale and I went back to finish the line Jay and I had started. An almost perfect 3 days it was. We found a beautiful line thru the cliff band to the right of the Roof Glacier and had the mountain to ourselves.

SAN JUAN MOUNTAINS

Introduction to the Needles Range w/ Mary Erdei

Not sure how I found out about this place but I was keen to go there. Only problem was we couldn't take the train because of our dogs. So instead we did the long walk from Purgatory. Took two full days to get up into Ruby Creek drainage. Mary was drained by the time we got to Ruby Lake, so we didn't end up doing anything. I scrambled up some peak on the crest for the view, which was great, so I knew I'd be back.

WIND RIVER RANGE

Lonesome Lake blues - last visit w/ Mary Erdei

This would be the last trip to the Winds for Mary and I. Soon we would go our own ways. After a quick trip up Pingora we went looking for the North Face of Warrior I. We could not find the start and eventually gave up.

TETONS

The Grand and Middle w/ Mark Whiton

Somehow Mark and I had lost track of each other after Conness and this at last was a welcome reunion. He was working for Jackson Hole Mountaineering so we had access to the their high camp for a few days. Before and after that I did a bit of backpacking up above Death Canyon and up at Solitude Lake

UTAH

More time on the Colorado Plateau

There was new snow in the Wasatch and the LaSals at the end of Sept. Good timing for being in the dez.

SAN JUAN MTS

Late fall backpacking on Handies Peak

The outdoor segment of the family was looking for a casual 3 day way to get up Handies. Formula: short hike to a good camping spot and a casual distance to the peak. Nice summit day in about 6-8 inches of new snow. Third morning the five of us we walked out. Perfect.

UTAH / ARIZONA

A winter in the desert.

Based out of Flagstaff, I spent the winter getting to know other little corners of the Colorado Plateau I'd yet to see. Lots of high skud clouds for weeks on end, but no real weather either. By March I headed west to California for some different vistas and climbing in Yosemite.

YOSEMITE

A week in the Valley w/ Jill Lawrence

I caught up with Jill in Arizona while she was working for Proctor Academy's Mt Classroom. We immediately made plans to meet up in the Valley in March. Sure wish we had more than a week as we both had alot of energy and the Valley was mostly quiet that week.

DEVILS TOWER

A primer for the Winds w/ Mary Erdei

This albums includes both the 85 and 86 visit. In 1985 we got in 3 days of climbing before heading west to the Winds. We were building towards something and having climbed alot already we felt pretty comfortably doing what we did. The highlight had to be Hollywood and Vine. Wish we'd had time to do some of the West Face routes, but the mountains were calling. The dynamic in 86 was the same (Tower to Winds) but the magic of 85 was clearly gone.

WIND RIVER RANGE

Deep Lake / Cirque of the Towers w/ Mary Erdei

The first half of the great summer trip to the Winds was spent climbing Lost Temple Spire and Wolfs Head. The weather was great and, unlike now, there were few if any people in the area. There was however, one classic, violent thunderstorm late night on July 30th at Lonesome Lake.

WIND RIVER RANGE

Titcomb Basin w/ Mary Erdei, Rainsford Rouner and Gustavo Brillembourg

1985 was without a doubt the most productive summer I ever spent in the Winds. The weather was just about perfect the entire time. Initially there were six of us camped up near Mistake Lake. We got packed in though the cowboy dropped us short below lower Titcomb Lake even though he'd promised to take our gear to Upper Titcomb Lake.

THE DIAMOND

Yellow Wall to Table Ledge w/ John and Phil

Planned on a roped solo but after meeting John and Phil, we decided to work together. Fixed a few pitches and went for it the next morning. Spent a wonderful night on the summit after the traverse off on Table Ledge. Took the old cable route down to the Boulderfield.

BUGABOOS: ATTEMPT BUGABOO SPIRE

East Face Bugaboo Spire attempt w/ Gustavo Brillembourg

Didn't seem the like the first week of Sept was pushing our luck with the weather, but indeed we were. And while we had our chance to top on the Cooper Route, we bailed from the bivy ledge when we should have stayed. Two days later winter arrived and we left for Wyoming where it snowed there too. After that we went to Jackson to celebrate our lack of success. Driving through most of the night allowed us to get in one day at the City before I needed to get Gus back to the airport in Calgary. He had a real job in NYC while I was un-employed and headed to the North Cascades.

NORTH CASCADES

Getting to know the North Cascades

I run hot and cold with the North Cascades. When the weather is great, I love it. When its bad, I start to think of Wyoming or California instead. Other than Liberty Bell & Prussik Peak (76), I knew little or nothing about the place With a copy of the old Spring / Manning hiking guide I gave myself a couple of weeks for a good intro to the range. After that I moved up to Lake Louise to catch up with my girl friends parents who were doing a trans Canada rail trip. I got in a few hikes there, but the weather was mostly grey so I made the big move down to Utah hoping to warm up a bit and get some sun.

UTAH / ARIZONA

An introduction to the Colorado Plateau

I'd spent a bit of time in the Moab area when we lived in SLC, but that was because we wanted to climb Castleton Tower. Other than that, I knew nothing. In 1984 Moab was still a sleepy little town. That fall, I spent a very quiet fortnight getting to know the area in solitude that is no longer available. Spent some time in Arches, Canyonlands/Dead Horse Point, Needles Overlook, Zion, Monument Valley and Havasu Canyon before flying home from Denver for Thanksgiving.

HIGH SIERRA

Various climbs w/ Mary Erdei

A big winter left plenty of snow in the backcountry all summer. Our final East Side adventure included climbs on University, Goode, Gilbert and the Matterhorn. Most of the slides from this year were lost so there is not much to show here.

NORTHERN SELKIRKS - ADAMANTS

Two weeks on the backside w/ Gustavo Brillembourg

15 days in the Northern Selkirks. That amazing trip with Gustavo Brillembourg happened so long ago now (Aug 83) that it is hard to remember the details from our adventure into the unknown.

WIND RIVER RANGE: LOST TEMPLE SPIRE

Squaretop w/ Mary Erdei and Lost Temple Spire w/ Gustavo Brillembourg

Sandwiched around our big trip to the Adaments were two visits to the Winds. Mary and I went looking for Squaretop and Gus and I climbed Haystack and a new route on Lost Temple Spire.

WASATCH RANGE - LONE PEAK

Three classic routes in the Lone Peak cirque

After working in early July w/ Jay and his boss on some building projects in SLC, I had enough money to spend the rest of the summer climbing in the Rockies. I started with Lone Peak just down the valley. Ended up doing Open Book, Thumb Center and Question Mark Wall as roped solos - improving my self belay system and gaining confidence for longer routes in Wyoming

SAWTOOTH MTS

Mt Heyburn attempt, the Beckey Route on the Elephants Perch and Peak 10,200 - solo

After seeing the Elephants Perch from the shoulder of Heyburn, I did the long walk back out, got some beta in a shop in town and came back via a motorized ride on the lake with my sights set on doing a climb on that wall. The Beckey route seemed like a good choice for a route I could solo. Travelling with Ace meant I couldn't bivy on the climb, so I fixed a pitch or two, camped with him and then went for it early the next morning. Was back in camp by the end of the day. No pictures. Another case of losing many of my slides from the early years. Next day I went way up the valley to do an easy snow climb on the north side of Peak 10,200.

WIND RIVER RANGE

A long stretch of time alone climbing from south to north

After the Perch in the Sawtooths, I spent the rest of the summer visiting most of the major drainages in the Wind River Range - climbing alone almost the entire time. I started with an attempt on what is now known as "Little Sandy Formations" - pt 11720' - the "Gold Dihedrals" (Chouinard). Took me a while to get comfortable with self belayed roped soloing and perhaps I was off route, but thin wires on this route spooked me and I backed off. I did the same on the North Face of Temple, but by the time I got to Peak Lake and the North Face of Sulphur, I had found my confidence and didn't retreat from any other routes. As Sept arrived my older brother and I headed in for a go at the north side of Gannett. He ran out of time (needed to be in the Tetons), but I stayed on and had a great day on the north face / north ridge.

HIGH SIERRA - ANGEL WINGS

The Beckey Route in winter w/ Jay Wilson

That's winter with a lower case w. After an attempt on a new line up the center of the face, we took a day off and then on the fifth day did the Beckey route on the left end of the wall. Got down in time to get as far out as Buck Creek where we slept on the bridge. Next day we made it out and over to the east side before taking Route 6 back to SLC the following day. A really fun 10 day trip.

HIGH SIERRA

High Sierra climbs w/ Mary Erdei

Looking into more corners of range from the East side. Climbs in Tuttle Creek, Lone Pine Creek and Shepherd Pass area.

HIGH SIERRA

Late Spring snow climbs in the Evolution region

A great week of solo climbs on the classic North Lake to South Lake loop thru the Evolution region. Long before it became popular. Didn't see anybody for the whole week!

BUGABOOS

Rock climbs w/ Jay Wilson

We left SLC on the 17th of August and arrived at the Kain Hut on the 19th. The next ten days were alot of fun, made hilariously more so by the arrival shortly thereafter of Paul Baird. He kept the entire place cracking up. In the meantime we did routes on Snowpatch, the East Face of Bugaboo, an attempt on the West Face of North Howser Tower and the McTech Arete.

MOUNT ROBSON

Southwest Face w/ Jay Wilson

After a close call on the Wishbone, the next day Jay and I found a nice line to the right of the Roof Glacier. Mt Robson is one of those peaks where no matter what route you chose to climb, if you make it to the top, you've done a big thing. As luck would have it I have been to the top twice.

TETONS

Fowler Route on the Enclose w/ Jay Wilson

One of the hidden gems in the Teton Range is this mixed route on the North Side of the Enclosure. I remember chasing Jay across the Vahalla Traverse in the dark. Man was he fast on that kind of terrain. The sudden onset of a thunderstorm as we descended into the Upper Saddle put a trip to the top of the Grand out of the question. Other than that, a great day.

KATAHDIN

Another winter trip to only real alpine peak in New England

We wanted to come back in 79 but March was too warm that year so we spent a great week in the Gunks instead. Winter 80 found us back once again with a slightly different crew. Joining Dave and I this time was Mark Chauvin, Ollie Wallock, and Tim Gotwells & George from Plymouth. This time I was pretty focused on filling in some gaps on the main face. Dave and I quickly took a spin up Black Gully between the Armadillo and the Flat Iron. When the rain came again, we had enough black memories to be a wee bit pessimistic, but Katahdin threw us a curve. After one day of rain, cold clear temps arrived for breakfast and we raced out of the cabin to have at it. Mark and I ended up doing the obvious line direct to the cairn at the top of Baxter Peak. He did a great job on the thin ice of the crux. Not hard climbing, but hard to protect. Tim and George did a nice route over to the right that same day. Dave and I finished the trip off with a quick trip up Waterfall. Best to rap from the top of the ice ... its a long slog to the South Peak from there.

MEDICINE BOW DIAMOND

This was the 2nd time I'd we'd come to climb the 'Diamond'. First was with Mark Richey in 1975. Both times we were completely ignorant of what had and hadn't been done on this interesting face. Only lately did I notice that the one climbing shot of Mary is somewhat similar to the MP shot of Captain Morgan.

WIND RIVER RANGE

A brisk introduction to the Northern Winds w/ Mary Erdei

Mid Sept might not be the smartest time to spend two weeks in Titcomb Basin, but what did we know. This was our first trip to the Northern Winds. More or less had the place to ourselves. In between the storms we got to climb on three days, the last of which was a full on epic ascent of Tower 1 Gully and Tower Ridge to Mt Helen. Descended in the dark w/o headlamps using the moon when possible. Arrived back at camp at 1am to find the dogs freaked out and our tent flat and broken from the strong winds that had blown all day long. Next night a big thunderstorm roared down the valley. Pretty intimidating as the thunder roared and the winds battered our patched up tent poles. The next morning was clear and calm as we started the two day walk out.

CRESTONE NEEDLE

Ellingwod Arete w/ Mary Erdei and Chip Cole

After our epic trip to Titcomb Basin we had time for one more adventure before heading for Salt Lake where we needed an apt and work. Chip was picking away at his 14ers and wanted to do this classic line. He borrowed a friends high clearance 4x4 for the approach drive, but it seemed to me to be faster to just walk that section.

SPEARHEAD

Sykes Sickle attempt w/ Mary Erdei and Chip Cole

Sneaking dogs into the park is just not a good idea. Particularly when a big boomer comes along, spooks them and they head back to the trailhead and get picked up by the park rangers. Meanwhile we bailed when the storm hit and had a tense night wondering where the pups were. Of course they got picked up by the rangers and we got a day in court to pay a $50 fine. Ace was not particularly friendly with all the strangers he didn't recognize, so that didn't help our case at all. Lesson learned.

LONE PEAK UTAH

Climbs in the Lone Peak cirque w/ Mary Erdei

After the debacle in RMNP and a date with the judge we collected our dogs and headed west to the Wasatch. We under-estimated the heat and ran out of water on the long walk up Draper Ridge. The dogs came to our rescue and found water towards the end of the day. We ended up doing two climbs in the area before we needed to head north to pick up Dennis in Billings, MT.

BUGABOOS

Colbalt Lake variation: Bugaboo Spire & S Howser Tower w/ Dennis Ellsohn

Travelling with dogs in the 70s was problematic. In the Bugs, we had to stay outside the park. A little valley above Cobalt Lake just east of the boundary worked out just fine. The weather - not so much. We did get up the Chouinard Beckey which was what we came for.

BEARTOOTHS - GLACIER PEAK CIRQUE

Glacier Peak and Mt Villard

A ten day loop thru the heart of the Beartooths by way of the seldom visited north side of Glacier Peak. Lots of rain, but enough good weather to make it a great adventure none the less.

WIND RIVER RANGE

w/ Mary Erdei and Mark Whiton

After our trips to BC and Montana we dropped down to familiar territory. A quick 6 day circuit of the Shadow and Baptiste Lakes region yielded some great routes in places I hadn't been before. The highlight of this visit had to be our failed attempt to put in a new line on the striking West Buttress of Bollinger.

HIGH SIERRA

Late summer climbs w/ Mary Erdei

Nothing lasts forever though in 1979 we tried our best to stay on the road indefinitely. After 3+ months we spent late August and early September climbing in the high country. The weather was perfect.

YOSEMITE

An attempt on El Cap, Fairview Dome and Mt Conness with Mark Whiton and Rainsford Rouner

After our three weeks in the High Sierra Mary and I went to the ocean for a bit. Then we went up to Tuolumne for a few days. After that it was back down to the Valley to meet Mark for a go at the big stone. It was too hot and we bailed on both the NA and Zodiac. So it was back up to Tuolumne with a new plan to hook up with Rainsford and do the Harding Route on Conness. Great ending to a really long trip.

ALPS - CHAMONIX

A season in the Mont Blanc Massif w/ Jeff Pheasant, Michael Hartrich and Alain Comeau

The idea was to stay as long as possible, climb often and some how make it work on $10 a day.

EL CAP - MAGIC MUSHROOM

Magic Mushroom w/ Mark Hudon and Mark Richey

A seven day adventure : One day of fixing, lots of waiting on bad weather and then 5 nights on the wall. Hud had other commitments and after fixing we were worried he might not be able to finish with us. But in the end it worked out well and we had a good time.

HALF DOME - DIRECT NW FACE

Direct NW Face w/ Mark Richey

A beautiful line up a dead vertical wall ... hot, dry and way low on water.

HIGH SIERRA

High Sierra climbs w/ Mary Erdei and Bryan Becker

After spending one of the wettest Mays on record in the Valley, we were hoping for a better luck in June. We got a little bit of both. Bryan and I did a route on the West Face of Russell in marginal weather. Spent most of the day in the clouds. Walked out the next day in a storm. Then the weather settled down and the three of us did Temple and Bear Creek Spire. After that Mary headed home and I went off to solo Clarence King. Up the East Ridge and down the South. Don't think I did the drop down that the 'Indirect' does. Just stayed with the ridge. Lost all the pictures from the Russell and Clarence King.

NWT - LOTUS FLOWER TOWER

Down time in the Cirque of the Unclimables

15 days of rain in a 3 week visit ... not alot of time left to go climbing. But, Mark Whiton, Al Rubin and I did get up the Lotus Flower Tower, followed a few days later by Michael Hartrich and Bryan Becker

THE DIAMOND

A free attempt on a link up using the Yellow Wall with the Forrest finish.

Rains and I showed up with a whole different attitude than Mark and I had employed the year before. Gone were the Super Guides. Now it was EBs and chalk. We rapped in rather than go up the North Chimney, fixed a pitch or two and had a nice evening on Broadway. Next morning we headed up with minimal idea of where to go. By mid afternoon the weather was looking very sketchy and I convinced Rains we should bail. We did, but it never rained. Always the cautious one ... that's me.

WIND RIVER RANGE - EAST FORK VALLEY

A six day trip remembered mostly for bad weather and minimal climbing

After the Diamond attempt Mary joined us for a week in the Winds. Turns out Michael Hartrich, Al Rubin and David ('Hot Curl') Linden were also headed for East Fork Valley. At least we did a couple routes on Mid Summer Dome and one easy one on the first peak south of Raid. Other than that we got to hang around alot.

NORTH CASCADES - LIBERTY BELL

Liberty Crack w/ Rainsford Rouner

From July 25 till Aug 19th, it rained 17 out of a possible 26 days. Now that's frustrating when you're living on the road. At least we caught a nice short window for this climb. We walked up to the base of the cliff, saw this obvious crack system and went for it. We had no beta, no guide - just masters of the obvious.

CANADIAN ROCKIES

An early attempt of the Andromeda Strain w/ Rainsford Rounder

Two visits in the summer of 76, the 2nd one resulting in an attempt on the as yet unclimbed rockies classic. Best that we didn't know what we were getting into. Backed off in steep aid late in the day. Rained hard the next day.

PRUSSIK PEAK

South Face w/ Mary Erdei and Rainsford Rounter

On our way to the Sierra after our trip to the Can Rocks, we stopped off in Leavenworth for a quick visit to Prussik Peak. Nice climb just far too short.

HIGH SIERRA - KEELER AND CLYDE

The Harding route w/ Rainsford Rouner and Starlight Pillar w/ Mary Erdei

Two of the best routes from the early years. The Harding route was interesting because we were a few pitches above them when Galen Rowell and friends were doing their historic FFA. After the Keeler Needle, Rains left for the Valley. I would catch up with him later, but before that I wanted to do Clyde with Mary. It was a wonderful trip into the unknown. If you have a copy of Roper's SC guide, you'll know what I mean. It was the first week of September. We had the South Fork all to ourselves. What's really sad about these two routes is that I lost most of the slides many years ago - long before I even had a scanner to preserve them.

EL CAP - NEW DAWN

New Dawn w/ Mark Hudon and Rainsford Rouner

After the Keeler Needle epic Rains left for the Valley to go catch up with Hud. Mary and I had gone to do the Starlight Pillar on Clyde. After that she went home and I went to the Valley. After some fun and free climbs, the three of us did New Dawn in 7 casual days including a rest day on El Cap Tower. The blank dihedrals were spooky to say the least!

MT WATKINS - S FACE

South Face of Mt Watkins w/ Michael Hartrich and Walter Dembitsky

After we bailed on the Muir, Walter came roaring into Camp 4 demanding to climb with us because we all knew Rick Wilcox and he had done Half Dome with Rick the year before. And so we did. Had a great time on the wall

MT WHITNEY TRAIL

Springtime on Mt Whitney w/ Mary Erdei and Chip Cole - May 1975

Introduction to the Sierra. Late May, normal snow year. Pretty hot too. Back then the world was a different place and late May was not like it is today. We had the trail, the campsite and the mountain to ourselves. Priceless.

THE DIAMOND

Yellow Wall to Table Ledge with Mark Richey

Seeing the Diamond while hiking the Keyhole Route the year before fired up my desire to get on this wall. Mark and I were just getting started on our two month road trip. The cliff was wet and did our best to stay dry, but by the time we got to table ledge, all the vertical possibilities to the top were running with lots of water. So ... we traversed off. We also did the Northcutt Carter on Hallets and the Petit Grepon.

WYOMING

Tetons & Wind River Range w/ Mark Richey

In the Tetons we knew we wanted to do the Black Ice Couloir. Only thing we knew about the Winds was we were headed to the Cirque. We had the old Bonney guide book to go by. The mosquitoes were ravenous. We did a route on the east face of Pingora and went back to Jackson.

BUGABOOS

East Face of Snowpatch attempt w/ Mark and Rainsford

The first thing I remember about the Bugaboos is that everyone expected that I would already know where they were. One visit was all it took to solve that issue. Rains, Mark and I arrived in the Bugaboos with no idea what we wanted to do. One look at the East Face of Snowpatch and we had a plan. The weather had it's own plans.

HIGH SIERRA - MENDEL COULOIR

Mendel Couloir w/ Mark Richey and Rainsford Rouner

After our epic retreat from the East Face of Snowpatch the 'Californians' at the Kain Hut recommended we head south to Mt Mendel. Good advice that.

EL CAP - THE NOSE

All alone on the Nose w/ Mark Richey and Rainsford Rouner

Most likely this happened because it was still hot in the valley. We'd just come from the high country and our Mendel Couloir climb and had just enough time for one more big adventure before it was time to head home. One highlight I'll never forget is Rains casually asking me about 2/3 of the way up the route .... 'what are we going to do about the dropped jumar?' What? Didn't even notice it fall off my rack. Dealing with that slowed us down a bit. Four nights out.

WASHINGTON COLUMN - THE PROW

The Prow w/ Jeff Pheasant

Don't recall all the details, but I took some kind of convoluted route thru Utah/Arizona to finally arrive in the Valley just about the time everyone else did. Did a few free climbs, but mostly I wanted to climb walls. The Phez and I had done our share of wall climbs in NH so this was a logical start on a bigger canvas.

EL CAP - SALATHE

The Salathe w/ Mark Hudon

For some unknown reason, after getting down from the Prow, Jeff wasn't too keen on doing the Big Stone. Lucky for me I meet up with Mark Hudon (Hud) who clearly was. On the Salathe, we fixed pitches and then went for it. Short storm at Mammoth and then fine weather the rest of the way. Not really knowing which way to go, we mistakenly walked out to the Tioga Road - in the snow.

LONGS PEAK

Keyhole Route w/ Chip Cole

The 2nd of my mountain adventures with my older brother. Still in the air force he pulled some free time and we headed up into the park to have a go at the Keyhole Route. I was heading home from the Valley so this was good timing to hook up with Chip on my way east.