|Description:||On the way to California, I spent time in the Medicine Bow mts, Indian Peaks Wilderness and the Cloud Peak Wilderness in the Bighorns. One hike, two climbs. Good stuff.|
Shoshoni to Apache Traverse
Shoshoni to Apache - the so called Kasparov Traverse. Great fun with something for everyone. I needed to keep moving and age being what it is, I only climbed the White Knight. Not having a rope means you do have to find a way around the short rap off the last Chessman to get to the saddle where the final climb of the north ridge begins. Not hard, just took a while to find it. The descent from the summiit of Apache to Isabelle Lake is long and tedious. Round trip took me about 10 hours.
An exciting, intricate ridge route on solid rock. It's proximity to the Innominate only adds to the setting. Careful but easy to follow raps down the north side of the peak is the standard way of getting off this dramatic peak. I would gladly do the long walk in to do this route again!
|Destination:||High Sierra: 2011-2018|
|Description:||Eight years and ten visits to the High Sierra.|
For the moment, this and all things Sierra can be found at East Side Adventures
|Destination:||Return to the Sierra|
|Timeframe:||May - June|
|Description:||After the long fruitless drive to Rogers Pass the summer before, I decided it might be time to redirect my energies to a range where the weather was more reliable.|
Solo climbs and some hikes w/ Jim Nupp
The locals called it the wettest spring in 30 years. 30 years ago, I was in the Valley and the weather was terrible that month. I've driven all the way out here, so now what? FYI, there is quite a bit more from the High Sierra that has not been ported over to this new site. You can find all things High Sierra at esa-rol.com
|Destination:||Beartooths and Selkirks|
|Description:||After taking two summers off from travel - one for the ankle recovery and the next to build an addition on our house - I was ready to get back at it.|
Granite Peak Loop
Want to see the best this mountain has to offer. do a loop up huckleberry and out via the FTD. Oh yeah, and you get to take your kit with you most of the way.
|Destination:||North Cascades - Not ready for prime time|
|Description:||Kim and I had plans for Stuart but changed them at the last second for Torment / Forbidden. We weren't really ready to commit to that route and started off by approaching it the wrong way. After a token attempt on the not so stellar rock on Torment, we bailed. The next morning we had an epic hike out getting thoroughly lost trying to shortcut the descent of Torment Basin. Two weeks later I was home and went under the knife to fuse my mostly worthless left ankle.|
A rather lame attempt to climb Torment w/ Kim Smith
Off and on rain showers and our lack of motivation resulted in a half hearted attempt on the standard route to Torment. The lack of any redeeming features or rock quality was enough to make even that not something we wanted to finish.
|Destination:||North Cascades and Beartooths|
|Timeframe:||July - August|
|Description:||Kim Smith and I did the Backbone Arete and eventually I ended up in Bozeman with Eric where I went off to solo the NE Ridge of Cowen.|
Backbone Arete w/ Kim Smith
Done in a long hot day during a major heat wave with forest fires in the area. Quality does not compare to what is found on Stuart.
Cowen - NE Arete
After a week of bad weather everywhere, Eric Scranton and I ran out of time (or he did to be more accurate). Back in Bozeman he and his then girlfriend Bobbie recommended Cowen as a good thing I could do alone. Bobbie's only comment was that I should make note of the fact that this region was on the edge of griz habitat. Okay.
|Destination:||Another short road trip to the North Cascades|
|Description:||After a bit of time in the Needles and an aborted trip to Gannett, Bets and I ended up having a go at Frostbite Ridge on Glacier Peak.|
Frostbite Ridge attempt w/ Betsy Harrison - solo ascent a week later
Two late summer visits to one of the more isolated volcanos in the Cascades. The first attempt was more memorable, the 2nd was an anti-climatic success.
|Destination:||North Cascades and SW B.C|
|Timeframe:||July - August|
|Description:||Betsy, Chuck and Eric joined me for various climbs in the region.|
Standard Route from Hannegan Pass w/ Betsy Harrison
Fun route on a pretty peak with some great camping just below treeline - a great introduction to snow and glacier travel for Betsy
Solo climb of the classic NE Ridge
Looking for an alpine peak with a legitimate snow/ice route in the summer is not all that easy. In the states, its darn near impossible. In Canada ... well that's another story.
NE Buttress w/ Eric Scranton
Yet another BC classic with a deceptively spooky approach thru the somewhat chaotic pocket glacier that varies from year to year. A one day route for some, but for most of us and ideal 2day climb with water and a big ledge mid-way up the buttress
|Destination:||Short road trip to Colorado and Wyoming|
|Timeframe:||July - August|
|Description:||The first of the hot wild fire summers.|
Hot and Smokey at Middle Fork Lake w/ Betsy Harrison
The summer of 2000 was a confusing time. Temps in the 90's in Jackson Hole, something was clearly wrong. No better in the Winds. Throw in some local forest fire activity and it made for an alltogether different trip.
|Destination:||A week at Red Rocks and JTree w/ Kim Smith|
|Description:||Some people have jobs that are way too important. Kim could only squeeze out a week away from the lab, but we managed to have a good time and get a fair amount of climbing done. It also coincided with the 2000 presidential election. Nuff said there.|
w/ Kim Smith
Only got in two days before heading over to JTree, but they were good days and a good intro to the area for Kim
|Name:||Quebec - 1999|
|Destination:||La Pomme D'or w/ Early Alderson|
A classic Quebec ice climb w/ Earl Alderson
Well worth the long drive to La Malbaie .... even if it rains all day on the way up
|Name:||Mt Hood - 1999|
A guided ascent of the standard route
Also a gig for me shooting the trip for Outdoor Explorer w/ Steve Madden
|Destination:||The final trip to Asia|
|Timeframe:||Sept - November|
|Description:||Not much to say about a trip that didn't go well.|
An attempt that never really got going.
More of a great trek than a serious climbing trip. A huge storm at the start of the fall season made for trouble in all sorts of ways.
|Destination:||A quick springtime trip to the Cascades.|
|Timeframe:||May - June|
|Description:||Learning how to cope with bad weather by eating more and enjoying time with your friends. After the alpine segment was over, Betsy flew out to help me with a half day photo job I did for Backpacker. We stayed with my little sister's in Kennewick and got in some quality time at Vantage before heading to Seattle to do the 'long underwear' shoot.|
|Destination:||Another trip to Assiniboine|
|Timeframe:||Juy - August|
|Description:||Better conditions than the year before. Notable also as it was the beginning of the 'troubles' that a year later would result in an appendectomy two weeks after getting home from Nepal.|
Back a year later w/ Dave Mention, Betsy Harrison & Rob and Sue Garneau
After being somewhat unprepared for full on alpine conditions the year before, we returned the next year with Rob, Sue and Betsy joining us. Again we had the hut to ourselves until the last night.
Hikes, scenics an a climb w/ Betsy Harrison
After Assiniboine we met Eric in Sedro Woolley where I promptly got very sick the next morning. It lasted all day and I ended up spending a bunch of time getting tests done in Pasco to find out why. Eventually we got back on track and spent a week back in the park before heading east to City of the Rocks where we meet up with my little sister and her family.
|Destination:||A long road trip from late July to November served up in two parts. Went to Assiniboine, the Bugaboos, Challenger, Adams and Daniel. Other than a couple of routes I'd done before in the Bugs, I can up empty on the rest. Then Betsy flew into Seattle and we shifted into rock climbing mode. Went to Squamish, Smith, City and Red Rocks before making the long drive home in late November.|
|Timeframe:||July - November|
|Description:||Assiniboine to Red Rocks|
An introduction to the Assibone region w/ Dave Mention
My interest in Assiniboine began when I reconnected with Dave Mention who I had lost track of after our trip to Gasherbrum II in 1991. He was keen to get back out there and I had always wanted to do more stuff with him. An idea became a plan.
Day hikes along the Icefields Parkway & in the Kananaskis
After the long walk out from Magog Lake, Dave departed for home. Meanwhile, the good weather continued, so I stuck around. I spent some time doing some simple day hikes in the area.
An attempt from Perfect Pass w/ Chip Cole
Sometimes described as the "perfect" climb in the North Cascades, an ascent of Mt Challenger is more than just a climb.
w/ Betsy Harrison
After visits to Squamish, Smith and the City, we spent the rest of our vacation time here.
|Destination:||A perfect trip to New Englands most dramatic mountain.|
|Description:||This the 6th trip to Katahdin in March 1996 was a bit different from the normal visits in the past. We spent 3 days skiing the length of the Park on our way to Chimney Pond. We then had two days to ski and climb. Most unusual was the fact that we had seven perfect days in a row.|
A perfect week in the park w/ Dave Goodman, Eric Scranton and Steve Amstudz
Skied the length of the park in 3 days with light packs. The rangers moved our climbing gear most of the way to Chimney Pond. We then got to stay in the better crew cabin. Then we climbed and skied for two more days before heading out.
|Destination:||Murphy Goes to Masherbrum|
|Timeframe:||May - June|
|Description:||Where everything that can go wrong does go wrong. Four of us against Masherbrum. We should have known better.|
May-June 1996 w/ Eric Olson, Gary Kuehn and Scott Porter
Where everything that can go wrong does go wrong.
|Destination:||A nice long road trip that covered alot of ground - w/ Betsy Harrison|
|Timeframe:||October - November|
|Description:||From the Needles of SD, to Devil's Tower, on over to Smith Rocks, we made our way down thru California by way of a quick visit to 'ORG'. Snow drove us south to two wonderful weeks at JTree. After that we moved over to Red Rocks where after a week we made tracks for Denver and Thanksgiving with Chip and his family. We went window shopping one day and traded in our fading Subaru Legacy for a slightly used 95 Eurovan Camper. A big piece of debt, but also a major upgrade in comfort for being on the road. Didn't help that we'd seen quite a few of them @ JTree.|
Two weeks at Joshua Tree
Blown south by storms and snow we arrived at JTree hoping for some relief. This was our first visit so the goal was to see as much of the park as time permitted. We particularly wanted to get out to the Astro Domes. The only time we didn't climb was when we went into town and got a motel room to watch the election returns. Back to the crags early the next day. We meet up with John & Ron early on so hooked up with them often during our stay.
|Name:||Canadian Rockies 1995|
|Destination:||The Wapta Ski Traverse w/ Dave Goodman|
|Description:||A really nice guided trip (Dave and I were on assignment) of the classic hut to hut ski tour. We got the deluxe version when Chris realized we could ski. Four days and three nights. Good conditions and good weather.|
An introduction to Canadian Hut to Hut skiing
Almost perfect conditions in early april on the classic hut traverse in the Can Rocks. Dave Goodman and I were working for Backcountry Magazine. Accompanying us as our guide was a local ER doctor from Banff. Once Chris realized we could make turns with a pack on we got the deluxe tour including things like Vulture Col and a trip up Mt Daly on our final day. The three of us had a great four days. Only wish it could have lasted longer.
|Destination:||A pre-wedding honeymoon 2 trek trip to Pakistan|
|Description:||Pakistan being what it is, we presented ourselves as married and on our honeymoon. In reality we wouldn't tie the knot for another two months. That being said, we hooked up with our friends Rich and Dawn who were already doing some serious Asia time for two two week treks into the heart of the Baltoro Karakoram. First we went to Latok basecamp on the Choktoi Glacier. After a brief rest we then went to Hushe hoping we could get ourselves up to the Gondogoro La for that classic K2 vista. That didn't happen but Rich, Ishmael (our sirdar) and I did get a sunrise summit of Gondogoro Peak as a consolation.|
Latok Basecamp Trek - June 1995 w/ Betsy, Dawn and Rich
Part 1 of our honeymoon in the Karakoram
Gondogoro Peak Trek - June 1995 w/ Betsy, Dawn and Rich
Part 2 of our honeymoon in the Karakoram
|Name:||Katahdin / Acadia 1995|
|Destination:||A fall rock climbing trip w/ Tyler Stableford and Kevin Hand|
|Description:||Only the 2nd time I've been to Katahdin when it wasn't winter. We got a campsite at Roaring Brook and got in two days of climbing before heading to Acadia for some more of the same. The goal was to do the Armadillo Buttress at Baxter and some cragging on the ocean at Acadia. Great weather until the last day.|
Three great pitches way off the ground, protected by a problematic approach ...
A brieft one day visit.
After Katahdin we drove all night to get here for one fine day of climbing before the weather, which had been great, finally turned against us.
|Destination:||Rock & Road: 16 days in California w/ Eric and Rob|
|Timeframe:||Sept - October|
|Description:||I don't remember how this all came about, but all of a sudden I was headed out west to catch up with Rob and Eric for a brief but exciting circuit around the Sierra. The idea was to crag and enjoy ourselves as much as possible in 16 days. We started in Vegas at Red Rocks, headed west to the Needles, went up thru the National Parks, stopped by Tuolumne and ended up down in the Gorge the first week of October.|
Rock and Road - Fall 1995 w/ Eric Olson and Rob Garneau
Red Rocks to the Needles to Tuolumne to Bishop and back to Vegas. Oh yeah and some beer was consumed.
|Destination:||Late summer trip to Colorado, British Columbia and Wyoming|
|Timeframe:||July - September|
|Description:||Betsy and I drove out to hook up with Chip for his final 14'ers in Colorado. After that I wanted Bets to see the classic Needles Range in the San Juans. We took the train from Silverado and had a great time doing the Chicago / Ruby Lake loop. After she flew home I drove up to Jackson hooking up with Mike Keating. We then headed north to the Can Rocks where we promptly go our egos thrashed by the nature of climbing on limestone on Mt Sir Douglas. The looseness of that rock and the humiliation that went with it fresh in our minds we quickly headed south to the Winds and some classic solid granite. I still had a tick list I wanted to deal with. We tagged two of the three routes on that list. Ambush and Bollinger we got, Warrior One we didn't.|
North Maroon Bell and Pyramid Peak w/ Chip Cole
An amazing place with all sorts of opportunities, marred only by its popularity and proximity to Aspen
Chicago Basin Ruby Lake Loop w/ Betsy Harrison
Third trip to this wonderful region, marred somewhat by the presence of a NOLS camp in Upper Ruby Creek Basin. We also had a nice day doing Eulos.
An attempt on the East Ridge w/ Mike Keating
A humbling introduction to the uncertainties of climbing on limestone in the Canadian Rockies.
Ambush and Bollinger w/ Mike Keating
Bollinger is one of the 3 best climbs I've done in the winds. The other two are the 'West Face Dihedral on Fremont Peak' and the 'West Face of Lost Temple Spire'. Only the Fremont climb is in the guide book. The other two we never reported.
|Destination:||An alpine style attempt on the Std West Face Route|
|Timeframe:||May - June|
|Description:||I learned alot from Dave Mention about how to organize a trip to the Karakoram. This time we mimicked the things that went so well two years prior. We sold thousands of tee-shirts, courted gear manufacturers (thanks to Heli and Climb High) and got a grant from REI to clean up the Broad Peak Base Camp. The five of us was an odd number and I wish we were a team of six but in the end we went with what we had. The weather was not bad, but it never really stabilized and so we keep getting blown off the mountain. On our 2nd attempt, at about 7000m Heli got really sick and after waiting a day we bailed for basecamp. It got worse, so helicopter evac was ordered. All of a sudden we were four with our sirdar Ghulam Rasul. He was our sirdar in 91 when Greg Child cancelled his trip, so considering how in demand he was and is, we were lucky to get him two times in a row. When the weather improved we went up again. Two days later another storm blow us off the mountain again.|
An alpine style attempt on the Std West Face Route
The last of the cheap excursions to Asia. A really great trip that demonstrated once again how weather controls the show and you're just along for the ride.
|Destination:||Part 3 of the Fall in Utah idea w/ Betsy Harrison|
|Description:||This was the last time we spent any time in Utah. By 1993 things had changed and the 'plateau' had been discovered by the mt bike crowd and in general everyone who was looking for something to do in the desert. This time we did the Buckskin/Paria 3 day again with my brother Chip and his wife Nancy. We also continued our exploration of the plateau's slot canyons.|
Another Buckskin - Paria Canyon 3 day loop
Such a great setting that we did it two years in a row. Perhaps different now that the region has become so popular.
Getting to know the Plateau Part 3
Early 90s was still a quiet time on the plateau. My guess is that it has changed dramatically since then.
|Destination:||Six weeks of backcountry skiing in Jackson Hole|
|Timeframe:||December - January|
|Description:||After the two previous winter ski trips to Wyoming, I was ready for a longer version of the same. My friend Earl Alderson had a plan for just that.|
Skiing and climbing in the Tetons
Last thing we did on that great 6 weeks in the Tetons was to skin up into Garnet Canyon for some climbing. The Grand was getting plenty of attention. Getting up early would have helped - ended up over in the South Fork on Cloudveil and Spaulding.
|Destination:||Bad weather in the Alaska Range w/ Helmut Lenes|
|Timeframe:||May - June|
|Description:||A return to the AR. Unlike two years ago, 1992 was both unstable and deadly. Heli and I flew into the Ruth Gorge with John and Peter hoping for a quick trip up the West Ridge of the Moose's Tooth before heading over to Denali for further adventures. Weather windows came and went quickly this year and we never really got untracked. We did run into Mario - my friend from Quebec - with his students. We also ran into Wes and Mike who would join us the next spring on our trip to Broad Peak.|
Bad weather in the Ruth Gorge
Expecting the same good weather as we had in 1990, we were rewarded with alot of snow and plenty of downtime in the Ruth. We waited in town for a couple of days before we could fly. We got dropped off in the gorge at the beginning of the short weather window which only lasted two days. We could have used one more.
More bad weather on Denali
Part 2 of our 1992 trip. After the hop over to the Kahiltna, the weather pattern never really settled down. We made slow progress to 14k and after one day of rest headed off to the Upper West Rib on what was the best day of the trip. The next day we made it to the top of the Orient Express before winds drove us down the West Butt and out of harms way.
|Destination:||Fall on the Colorado Plateau w/ Betsy Harrison|
|Description:||This time we drove out for our fall swing thru the Colorado Plateau. We went to Jackson first to do a slide show fund raiser for Broad Peak where Mark delivered the sad news that he couldn't go with us. I was devastated. There was nothing I ever wanted to do more than climb with Mark Whiton and Jay Wilson. We wandered down to Moab shortly thereafter and continued our exploration of the region. Later on, while on our way to Sante Fe, the timing belt blew on our little Isuzu. We were about 100 miles from town but the tow was covered by our AAA insurance and our friends in town loaned us their car to go look for a new one. After another fund raiser slide show we headed home.|
Down Buckskin and back up Paria Canyon
First time down this classic 3 day hike. Just enough water, but not too deep. Even needed to use a short rope at one point. Best thing was we had it all to ourselves.
Part 2 of our exploration of the Colorado Plateau
Stayed a little longer this time. After Buckskin/Paria we went back to exploring the Escalante region until it was time to head to Santa Fe.
|Destination:||The first of four trips to Pakistan|
|Timeframe:||May - June|
|Description:||Dave Mention from LL Bean put together a great trip to Gasherbrum 2. We had lots of sponsors so the price of entry for the seven of us was quite cheap. Like Tajikistan two years earlier, this was another magic trip. We didn't summit, but we came close.|
The fun never stops - the first of four trips to the Karakoram
The more I think about this trip, the more I am so totally amazed and grateful for the extraordinary effort put in by Dave Mention to make it possible for all of us to go on this memorable journey to the other side of the world. We came close to tagging the summit, but as the years go by it seems to me it's the journey itself that i grow more fond of.
|Destination:||Fall in the Colorado and Utah w/ Betsy Harrison|
|Description:||A return to the Dez. We flew to Denver, headed up to Jackson to visit with Mark Whiton, drove down thru the Uintah / Wasatch Ranges and eventurally to the Moab Area. Later we moved over to the San Juans for some family time a couple of 14 ers. A really great three weeks.|
An intro to the Escalante Region of Utah
Early 90s was still a quiet time on the plateau. My guess is that it has changed dramatically since then. Betsy and I came here three Octobers in a row, before our interests moved elsewhere. We started this trip with a quick trip to Wilson, WY and then headed south to the Wasatch and eventually to Moab.
The mountain part of our 3 week tour of the West
After the Escalante adventure we moved over to Colorado and meet up with family in Ouray. We did a bit of peak bagging, cragging and an auto tour over one of the high passes. After that we were just about out of time and needed to get back to Denver for our flight home.
|Name:||Alaska - 1990|
|Destination:||An intro to the Alaska Range w/ Mark Whiton, Andy Carson and Tad Pfeiffer|
|Timeframe:||May - June|
|Description:||1990 was the year Mark Whiton finally convinced me to go to the Alaska Range with him. We tried the west face of Huntington and then did a quick 10 day round trip of the West Butt.|
An attempt on West Face w/ Mark Whiton
My first and only attempt at what used to be termed 'Super Alpine'. A stunningly beautiful peak in the heart of the Alaska Range.
A ten day round trip up the Butt where the weather was indeed our best friend.
After our attempt on the West Face of Huntington, we jumped over to the Kahiltna to hook up with Tad Pfeiffer for a delightful 10 day round trip stroll, made easy by almost perfect weather. We were joined in the latter stages by our Canadian friend Mario Bilodeau.
|Destination:||Another road trip west|
|Timeframe:||July - September|
|Description:||By July I was back on the road. After a quick visit with Mark in the Tetons, I headed north for yet another visit to the Bugs. We started as a threesome. After Sue went home Guy Johnson and I went back to the Bugs, did some Can Rocks time and finished up a nice trip with a big loop hike/climb in the Winds.|
A trip to the Lower Saddle and another up the E Ridge of Owen
To the saddle with Mark Whiton, Koven Route on Owen by myself and also some local scenics.
A whole bunch of time in the Bugs with Guy and Sue
Sort of an intro to alpine rock climbing for Guy and Sue. We had pretty good luck with the weather and did a bunch of fine climbs. Broke it into two parts as Sue had a real job and couldn't stay as long as Guy. Back then it was still okay to camp on the Vowell side of Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col. Oh those were the days.
Just another roadside attraction along the Icefields Parkway
Take a number if you would please. Temps were warming up fast. Almost too warm, but we squeezed in this climb before the freezing level went way way up. After that we spent some time around Edith Cavell and Robson. Too warm to do anything but enjoy the view.
Peak Lake - Titcomb Loop including Tower 1 Couloir w/ Guy Johnson
After our long stay in the Bugaboos and Can Rocks, Guy and I headed south for one last adventure in the Winds - a tour of the Peak Lake area.
|Destination:||A different kind of winter trip to Katahdin|
|Description:||Avalanche hazard was too high for much of anything up high. Good weather and great crew so we had fun anyway.|
Return to Baxter State Park
After an 8 year hiatus, it was time to spend some more time in the Park. This years team: Dave Goodman, Gary Kuehn, Saran Taylor, Jeff Newsome and myself. The news we got upon arrival at Chimney Pond was that a couple of climbers had triggered an avalanche on the CIlley-Barber route. They were safe, but the Park authorities closed all the gullies to climbing. We were left we plenty to do as we still had access to the Pamola Ice Cliffs, skiing low down in the various bowls and of course a chance to do the classice ridge loop up the Cathedral Trail, over all the peaks in the South Basin, and down the Dudley Trail off of Pamola. In the end, that's exactly what we did. Most of it in really good weather.
|Destination:||Another long summer trip w/ Dale Navish|
|Timeframe:||July - September|
|Description:||88 went so well, Dale and I decided we needed more of the same. First we went to the Bugs. Then Gary Kuehn joined us for Rainier and Waddington. After that Dale and I dropped down to the Tetons and Winds. We were pretty much out of gas by the time we got to Devils Tower and the cold fall winds were enough to convince us it was time to head home.|
Another attempt on the West Face of North Howser Tower w/ Dale Navish
Unlike the 81 attempt which barely got off the ground before stonefall drove us off the Rowell route, this time we decided to have a go at All Along the Watchtower. Things went well until half way thru the 2nd day when Dale took a fall and tweaked the tendon in a finger on his right hand. That kind of spooked him and any interest he had in continuing. We were short of water and would have certainly run out before the top. I was keen to continue and for once I didn't want to bail. We rapped, found a ledge and the next day got back to the hut via Bill's Pass. I still think about this one alot.
Regular route w/ Dale Navish and Gary Kuehn
A weekend sprint and a brush with the law. That would be the two things I remember most about an August 89 climb of the regular route (DC) on Mt Rainier.
Bravo Glacier Route w/ Dale Navish & Gary Kuehn
After such a great summer in 88 it seemed logical to turn it up a notch in 89. What was needed was a trip ... a bigger peak. Waddington seemed like a logical choice. Joining Dale and I this year was our friend from the Dartmouth Ice Lab - Gary Kuehn. When asked what he did at the lab, Gary replied, "I break ice".
Direct Exum and NW Couloir Middle w/ Dale Navish
After Waddington Gary left for other commitments while Dale and I headed for the Tetons. We hauled some gear up the Jackson Hole Mt Guides basecamp, and as there were no clients there, we got to stay in the deluxe vinyl tent. Great weather the whole trip. On our way out of Garnet Canyon.we took a short detour so we could do Irene's Arete.
W Face Lost Temple Spire w/ Dale Navish
Couldn't get enough of this route and was keen to have Dale do it too. This was the last adventure of our big western tour that started back in July. A couple days after we left they got 10" of snow
|Name:||Tajikistan - 1989|
|Destination:||From Russia with Love: An amazing adventure in a far away place.|
|Description:||Looking back, I have to say this was one of the most magical trips I have ever been on. Not only was it spur of the moment, my visa only came thru at the last second. The crew, the location and the weather combined to make the experience both exotic and rewarding.|
16 Days of classic 3rd world adventure
There were two parts to the trip .... a trek into the Fanskie mountains capped off with an alpine climb on the NW Face of Pik Energia. The second half was designed to offer some whitewater rafting. Adventure as we all know, starts when you throw away the script.
|Destination:||Back on the road to all the usual locations and some new ones.|
|Timeframe:||May - September|
|Description:||After my divorce I felt a strong need to get back to what I did best - travel and climb. Started with some backpacking in RMNP, Wasatch, San Juans and Elk Range before heading up to Cascades for almost a month of climbing, skiing and backpacking. After that it was Canada time and a return to the Bugs and Mt Robson. There was a bit of Lake Louise and a day at Smoke Bluffs at Squamish before the money ran out and it was time to head home and get some work. Throw in some family time coming and going, and all told I was gone three and a half months.|
Snowbird to Bell Canyon Traverse
When I lived in SLC, I loved the Wasatch backcountry. Even after I moved back east I came back a few more times as I still had friends living there. After the tragic death of Jay Wilson and the Whitons move to Wyoming in '91, I never went back.
Sneffels and Chicago Basin
The better part of a week split between a quick trip up the easy side of Sneffels and five nights on a loop up thru Chicago Basin and out via Ruby Creek.
North Ridge w/ Dave Goodman
Done in perfect weather in a not so normal fashion. Up and down in a day from the standard bivy site. Climbing without bivy kit made the route alot more enjoyable.
A backcountry ski trip into the heart of the park.
The truism that all that snow in the Olympics could only result from a lot of bad weather became the exception as we had a perfect mid july week in the park. With our local guide and friend Steve Barnett, Dave Goodman and I got a great intro tour of the summer skiing possibilities in the range.
Northwest Face w/ Dave Goodman
I spent alot of time in the North Cascades during the Summer of 88. One of the best things I did was the NW Face of Forbidden Peak with Dave Goodman. We had been around for awhile and wanted to do one more alpine climb before going our own ways.
Backpacking with my siblings
After Dave left for home I spent 10 days hiking and backpacking with my little sister MaryAnn, her husband Chuck and my older brother Chip. Chuck, MAC and I started with an overnight up at HIdden Peak, We followed that up with a day hike to Maple Pass and finished once Chip had joined us with a 4 day trip into Itswoot Ridge / Bachelor Meadows. All told, I was in the Cascades July 13th until August 7th. The only bad weather came during the last few days.
Bugaboo Spire - Midnight Route - w/ Mark Whiton and Dale Navish
Dale and I arrived in the Bugs intent on taking a trip up the Midnight Route. When Mark arrived we became a threesome and had a great time on the route. It was a big intro for Dale doing a route this big. He lead the last pitch to the bivy on the NE Ridge and got there just about midnight. I think this was the 2nd ascent. Weather went south after that, but we stuck around for a few more days before heading over to Lake Louise.
Chouinard Route w/ Mark Whiton and Dale Navish
After our time in the Bugs, it only made sense to move east to the Can Rocks for a go at some of the classics over there.
Mt Robson w/ Dale Navish
Thinking of Jay. After Jay's death the year before, I couldn't help thinking of him when Dale and I went back to finish the line Jay and I had started. An almost perfect 3 days it was. We found a beautiful line thru the cliff band to the right of the Roof Glacier and had the mountain to ourselves.
|Destination:||A long varied trip from the end of July until the first week of November|
|Timeframe:||July - November|
|Description:||This was another two part adventure. Mary only had so much time given her teaching commitments. After she headed home I spent time in the Tetons, Enchantment Lake region, Wasatch, Canyonland, Escalante and the San Juans. I meet up with family and friends at most of these locations.|
Introduction to the Needles Range w/ Mary Erdei
Not sure how I found out about this place but I was keen to go there. Only problem was we couldn't take the train because of our dogs. So instead we did the long walk from Purgatory. Took two full days to get up into Ruby Creek drainage. Mary was drained by the time we got to Ruby Lake, so we didn't end up doing anything. I scrambled up some peak on the crest for the view, which was great, so I knew I'd be back.
Lonesome Lake blues - last visit w/ Mary Erdei
This would be the last trip to the Winds for Mary and I. Soon we would go our own ways. After a quick trip up Pingora we went looking for the North Face of Warrior I. We could not find the start and eventually gave up.
The Grand and Middle w/ Mark Whiton
Somehow Mark and I had lost track of each other after Conness and this at last was a welcome reunion. He was working for Jackson Hole Mountaineering so we had access to the their high camp for a few days. Before and after that I did a bit of backpacking up above Death Canyon and up at Solitude Lake
More time on the Colorado Plateau
There was new snow in the Wasatch and the LaSals at the end of Sept. Good timing for being in the dez.
Late fall backpacking on Handies Peak
The outdoor segment of the family was looking for a casual 3 day way to get up Handies. Formula: short hike to a good camping spot and a casual distance to the peak. Nice summit day in about 6-8 inches of new snow. Third morning the five of us we walked out. Perfect.
|Destination:||The first half of a year spent on the road|
|Timeframe:||Jan - March|
|Description:||I flew home from Denver for the holidays (Thanksgiving - Xmas). I also needed some work and the 'beamery' generously gave me some hours working on post and beam projects while I was around. Around New Years I flew back to Denver and spent the next 3 months wandering around the desert before spending a bit of time cragging in the Valley.|
A week in the Valley w/ Jill Lawrence
I caught up with Jill in Arizona while she was working for Proctor Academy's Mt Classroom. We immediately made plans to meet up in the Valley in March. Sure wish we had more than a week as we both had alot of energy and the Valley was mostly quiet that week.
|Destination:||The second half of a year spent on the road.|
|Timeframe:||July - August|
|Description:||After a few days in Omaha we go to Devils Tower on the 18th of July. After 3 days there we got in a half wet day at Lumpy Ridge and visit with family in Denver. We then spent almost a month in the Wind River Range spread over a week in the Temple Lakes / Cirque and two glorious weeks in Titcomb Basin. We were back in Denver by the 21st and home to NH a week later.|
A primer for the Winds w/ Mary Erdei
This albums includes both the 85 and 86 visit. In 1985 we got in 3 days of climbing before heading west to the Winds. We were building towards something and having climbed alot already we felt pretty comfortably doing what we did. The highlight had to be Hollywood and Vine. Wish we'd had time to do some of the West Face routes, but the mountains were calling. The dynamic in 86 was the same (Tower to Winds) but the magic of 85 was clearly gone.
Deep Lake / Cirque and Titcomb Basin w/ Mary Erdei, Rainsford Rouner and Gustavo Brillembourg
1985 was without a doubt the most productive summer I ever spent in the Winds. The weather was just about perfect the entire time. There was however, one classic, violent thunderstorm late night on July 30th at Lonesome Lake.
|Destination:||The beginning of almost 4 months away from home. A few cliimbs, but mostly a trip of exploration and getting to know the desert|
|Timeframe:||August - November|
Yellow Wall to Table Ledge w/ John and Phil
Planned on a roped solo but after meeting John and Phil, we decided to work together. Fixed a few pitches and went for it the next morning. Spent a wonderful night on the summit after the traverse off on Table Ledge. Took the old cable route down to the Boulderfield.
East Face Bugaboo Spire attempt w/ Gustavo Brillembourg
Didn't seem the like the first week of Sept was pushing our luck with the weather, but indeed we were. And while we had our chance to top on the Cooper Route, we bailed from the bivy ledge when we should have stayed. Two days later winter arrived and we left for Wyoming where it snowed there too. After that we went to Jackson to celebrate our lack of success. Driving through most of the night allowed us to get in one day at the City before I needed to get Gus back to the airport in Calgary. He had a real job in NYC while I was un-employed and headed to the North Cascades.
Getting to know the North Cascades
I run hot and cold with the North Cascades. When the weather is great, I love it. When its bad, I start to think of Wyoming or California instead. Other than Liberty Bell & Prussik Peak (76), I knew little or nothing about the place With a copy of the old Spring / Manning hiking guide I gave myself a couple of weeks for a good intro to the range. After that I moved up to Lake Louise to catch up with my girl friends parents who were doing a trans Canada rail trip. I got in a few hikes there, but the weather was mostly grey so I made the big move down to Utah hoping to warm up a bit and get some sun.
An introduction to the Colorado Plateau
I'd spent a bit of time in the Moab area when we lived in SLC, but that was because we wanted to climb Castleton Tower. Other than that, I knew nothing. In 1984 Moab was still a sleepy little town. That fall, I spent a very quiet fortnight getting to know the area in solitude that is no longer available. Spent some time in Arches, Canyonlands/Dead Horse Point, Needles Overlook, Zion, Monument Valley and Havasu Canyon before flying home from Denver for Thanksgiving.
|Destination:||A two part trip. The first part with Mary and the second with Gustavo. Almost ten weeks total.|
|Timeframe:||June - September|
Various climbs w/ Mary Erdei
A big winter left plenty of snow in the backcountry all summer. Our final East Side adventure included climbs on University, Goode, Gilbert and the Matterhorn. Most of the slides from this year were lost so there is not much to show here.
Two weeks on the backside w/ Gustavo Brillembourg
15 days in the Northern Selkirks. That amazing trip with Gustavo Brillembourg happened so long ago now (Aug 83) that it is hard to remember the details from our adventure into the unknown.
Squaretop w/ Mary Erdei and Lost Temple Spire w/ Gustavo Brillembourg
Sandwiched around our big trip to the Adaments were two visits to the Winds. Mary and I went looking for Squaretop and Gus and I climbed Haystack and a new route on Lost Temple Spire.
|Destination:||Solo climbs at Lone Peak Utah, the Sawtooths, in the Wind River Range and a Gannett trip w/ Chip Cole|
|Timeframe:||July - September|
|Description:||After spending the winter of 81/82 in Denver, I arrived in Salt Lake to again work with Jay on some commercial carpentry he was doing with a friend. I was there from the 20th of June until July 9th. I earned enough money to make some payments on my new Mazda 2000 and then headed out to spend 7 weeks on the road doing climbs by myself on Lone Peak, Elephants Perch and numerous peaks in the Wind River Range from July 31st until Sept 3rd.|
Mt Heyburn attempt, the Beckey Route on the Elephants Perch and Peak 10,200 - solo
After seeing the Elephants Perch from the shoulder of Heyburn, I did the long walk back out, got some beta in a shop in town and came back via a motorized ride on the lake with my sights set on doing a climb on that wall. The Beckey route seemed like a good choice for a route I could solo. Travelling with Ace meant I couldn't bivy on the climb, so I fixed a pitch or two, camped with him and then went for it early the next morning. Was back in camp by the end of the day. No pictures. Another case of losing many of my slides from the early years. Next day I went way up the valley to do an easy snow climb on the north side of Peak 10,200.
A long stretch of time alone climbing from south to north
After the Perch in the Sawtooths, I spent the rest of the summer visiting most of the major drainages in the Wind River Range. I climbed alone almost the entire time. As Sept arrived my older brother and I headed in for a go at the north side of Gannett. He ran out of time (needed to be in the Tetons), but I stayed on and had a great day on the north face / north ridge.
|Name:||Angel Wings - 1981|
|Destination:||A New Years trip to climb a big wall deep in Sequoia Nat Park|
|Timeframe:||December - January|
|Description:||Jay and I knew each other from our North Conway days and being neighbors, we started making plans right away. We lucked out in going to Hamilton Lakes in January as the Sierra had liitle or no snow at that point. We carried skies just in case. We got to carry them out too as the weather was warm and mostly sunny the whole time.|
The Beckey Route in winter w/ Jay Wilson
That's winter with a lower case w. After an attempt on a new line up the center of the face, we took a day off and then on the fifth day did the Beckey route on the left end of the wall. Got down in time to get as far out as Buck Creek where we slept on the bridge. Next day we made it out and over to the east side before taking Route 6 back to SLC the following day. A really fun 10 day trip.
|Name:||High Sierra - 1981|
|Destination:||The better part of a month on the east side with Mary and then a solo excursion into the Evolution region|
|Timeframe:||May - June|
|Description:||May 1981 was certainly the biggest and most successful of the early years. It was also the beginning of the end. Though I didn't know it at the time, Mary and I would never again spend this much time in the range. After she left to head east for grad school I spent a fantastic week doing the North Lake to South Lake loop thru Evolution country, climbing whatever looked good. Still plenty of snow, so I did 3 snow route and then a rock route on Thunderbolt. Could have and should have stayed longer. It was a magic time for me.|
High Sierra climbs w/ Mary Erdei
Looking into more corners of range from the East side. Climbs in Tuttle Creek, Lone Pine Creek and Shepherd Pass area.
Late Spring snow climbs in the Evolution region
A great week of solo climbs on the classic North Lake to South Lake loop thru the Evolution region. Long before it became popular. Didn't see anybody for the whole week!
|Destination:||A 3 week road trip to British Columbia and Wyoming with Jay Wilson|
|Timeframe:||July - August|
|Description:||After California I went to Flagstaff for a visit with Mom before heading up to Salt Lake. Jay and Louise had just bought a house and needed some help with the remo. The idea was that if we could make good progress on it, we could take three weeks to cliimb afterwords. Jay needed to be home by the 10th of August. Tight window but we did get our three weeks and had a great time in Canada and Wyoming.|
Rock climbs w/ Jay Wilson
We left SLC on the 17th of August and arrived at the Kain Hut on the 19th. The next ten days were alot of fun, made hilariously more so by the arrival shortly thereafter of Paul Baird. He kept the entire place cracking up. In the meantime we did routes on Snowpatch, the East Face of Bugaboo, an attempt on the West Face of North Howser Tower and the McTech Arete.
Southwest Face w/ Jay Wilson
After a close call on the Wishbone, the next day Jay and I found a nice line to the right of the Roof Glacier. Mt Robson is one of those peaks where no matter what route you chose to climb, if you make it to the top, you've done a big thing. As luck would have it I have been to the top twice.
Fowler Route on the Enclose w/ Jay Wilson
One of the hidden gems in the Teton Range is this mixed route on the North Side of the Enclosure. I remember chasing Jay across the Vahalla Traverse in the dark. Man was he fast on that kind of terrain. The sudden onset of a thunderstorm as we descended into the Upper Saddle put a trip to the top of the Grand out of the question. Other than that, a great day.
|Destination:||Another classic trip with a new cast of characters.|
Another winter trip to only real alpine peak in New England
We wanted to come back in 79 but March was too warm that year so we spent a great week in the Gunks instead. Winter 80 found us back once again with a slightly different crew. Joining Dave and I this time was Mark Chauvin, Ollie Wallock, and Tim Gotwells & George from Plymouth. This time I was pretty focused on filling in some gaps on the main face. Dave and I quickly took a spin up Black Gully between the Armadillo and the Flat Iron. When the rain came again, we had enough black memories to be a wee bit pessimistic, but Katahdin threw us a curve. After one day of rain, cold clear temps arrived for breakfast and we raced out of the cabin to have at it. Mark and I ended up doing the obvious line direct to the cairn at the top of Baxter Peak. He did a great job on the thin ice of the crux. Not hard climbing, but hard to protect. Tim and George did a nice route over to the right that same day. Dave and I finished the trip off with a quick trip up Waterfall. Best to rap from the top of the ice ... its a long slog to the South Peak from there.
|Destination:||A short fall trip while moving out west to Salt Lake|
|Timeframe:||Sept - October|
|Description:||After our 79 trip Mary and I made plans to get married and to move out west. It was fortunate for us that Jay and Louise were also living in Salt Lake as at the time we thought Utah was the place for us. We got to Colorado by the first week of Sept, and figured we had about 5 weeks to play before snow in the mountains was more likely than not to happen. First we got a brisk introduction to the Northern Winds, then did some hiking in the Colorado Front Range and finished up an ascent of the classic Ellingwood Arete on Crestone Needle|
A brisk introduction to the Northern Winds w/ Mary Erdei
Mid Sept might not be the smartest time to spend two weeks in Titcomb Basin, but what did we know. This was our first trip to the Northern Winds. More or less had the place to ourselves. In between the storms we got to climb on three days, the last of which was a full on epic ascent of Tower 1 Gully and Tower Ridge to Mt Helen. Descended in the dark w/o headlamps using the moon when possible. Arrived back at camp at 1am to find the dogs freaked out and our tent flat and broken from the strong winds that had blown all day long. Next night a big thunderstorm roared down the valley. Pretty intimidating as the thunder roared and the winds battered our patched up tent poles. The next morning was clear and calm as we started the two day walk out.
Ellingwod Arete w/ Mary Erdei and Chip Cole
After our epic trip to Titcomb Basin we had time for one more adventure before heading for Salt Lake where we needed an apt and work. Chip was picking away at his 14ers and wanted to do this classic line. He borrowed a friends high clearance 4x4 for the approach drive, but it seemed to me to be faster to just walk that section.
|Destination:||Another long trip to many of the now familar haunts|
|Timeframe:||June - October|
|Description:||Mary quite her job at the end of May ... so did I for that matter. We left immediately for Denver and the start of a huge road trip. People came and went. Chip went with us to try the Spearhead in RMNP, then Dennis Ellsohn joined us for a trip to the Bugs. After that the 3 of us were joined by Chris Hassig for a trip into the heart of the Beartooths. Then came some great climbing with Mark Whiton in the Winds follow by some quality time in the Sierras. By mid Sept we'd returned from a quick visit to Flagstaff (mom) and the Pacific Coast to rendezvous with Mark in the Valley. It was hot so we bailed on attempts on the NA and Zodiac and headed up to Tuolumne to catch up with Rains and his friends, the highlight of which was a bivy at the top of Conness after a memorable day on the Harding Route. We got back to North Conway the first week of October. We'd been gone four months!|
Climbs in the Lone Peak cirque w/ Mary Erdei
After the debacle in RMNP and a date with the judge we collected our dogs and headed west to the Wasatch. We under-estimated the heat and ran out of water on the long walk up Draper Ridge. The dogs came to our rescue and found water towards the end of the day. We ended up doing two climbs in the area before we needed to head north to pick up Dennis in Billings, MT.
Colbalt Lake variation: Bugaboo Spire & S Howser Tower w/ Dennis Ellsohn
Travelling with dogs in the 70s was problematic. In the Bugs, we had to stay outside the park. A little valley above Cobalt Lake just east of the boundary worked out just fine. The weather - not so much. We did get up the Chouinard Beckey which was what we came for.
Glacier Peak and Mt Villard
A ten day loop thru the heart of the Beartooths by way of the seldom visited north side of Glacier Peak. Lots of rain, but enough good weather to make it a great adventure none the less.
w/ Mary Erdei and Mark Whiton
After our trips to BC and Montana we dropped down to familiar territory. A quick 6 day circuit of the Shadown and Baptiste Lakes region yielded some great routes in places I hadn't been before. The highlight of this visit had to be our failed attempt to put in a new line on the striking West Buttress of Bolinger.
Late summer climbs w/ Mary Erdei
Nothing lasts forever though in 1979 we tried our best to stay on the road indefinitely. After 3+ months we spent late August and early September climbing in the high country. The weather was perfect.
An attempt on El Cap, Fairview Dome and Mt Conness with Mark Whiton and Rainsford Rouner
After our three weeks in the High Sierra Mary and I went to the ocean for a bit. Then we went up to Tuolumne for a few days. After that it was back down to the Valley to meet Mark for a go at the big stone. It was too hot and we bailed on both the NA and Zodiac. So it was back up to Tuolumne with a new plan to hook up with Rainsford and do the Harding Route on Conness. Great ending to a really long trip.
|Name:||Les Alps 1978|
|Destination:||A summer in Chamonix.|
|Timeframe:||July - September|
|Description:||Half the gang went to Peru and the other half went to the Alps. At least the people I was hanging around with. Mid July till Labor Day. A mix of personalities and levels of ambition. We all got along and managed to do some fine climbs. Camping the first half of the trip. Then when the bulk of the team showed up, we moved into an apartment in Argentierre. Deluxe! Weather was hit of miss, but probably normal as things go.|
A season in the Mont Blanc Massif w/ Jeff Pheasant, Michael Hartrich and Alain Comeau
The idea was to stay as long as possible, climb often and some how make it work on $10 a day.
|Destination:||Another long trip. Aiming even higher.|
|Timeframe:||May - September|
|Description:||A tragic summer on two occasions. Painful memories mixed in with new locations and new partners.|
Magic Mushroom w/ Mark Hudon and Mark Richey
A seven day adventure : One day of fixing, lots of waiting on bad weather and then 5 nights on the wall. Hud had other commitments and after fixing we were worried he might not be able to finish with us. But in the end it worked out well and we had a good time.
Direct NW Face w/ Mark Richey
A beautiful line up a dead vertical wall ... hot, dry and way low on water.
High Sierra climbs w/ Mary Erdei and Bryan Becker
After spending one of the wettest Mays on record in the Valley, we were hoping for a better luck in June. We got a little bit of both. Bryan and I did a route on the West Face of Russell in marginal weather. Spent most of the day in the clouds. Walked out the next day in a storm. Then the weather settled down and the three of us did Temple and Bear Creek Spire. After that Mary headed home and I went off to solo Clarence King. Up the East Ridge and down the South. Don't think I did the drop down that the 'Indirect' does. Just stayed with the ridge. Lost all the pictures from the Russell and Clarence King.
Down time in the Cirque of the Unclimables
15 days of rain in a 3 week visit ... not alot of time left to go climbing. But, Mark Whiton, Al Rubin and I did get up the Lotus Flower Tower, followed a few days later by Michael Hartrich and Bryan Becker
|Destination:||Trying to duplicate the magic of '75|
|Timeframe:||July - September|
|Description:||Shorter trip: later start and later finish. Great expectations. Sometimes the experience doesn't quite live up to it. Bad weather didn't help. But still, some great climbs and moments of comraderie|
A free attempt on a link up using the Yellow Wall with the Forrest finish.
Rains and I showed up with a whole different attitude than Mark and I had employed the year before. Gone were the Super Guides. Now it was EBs and chalk. We rapped in rather than go up the North Chimney, fixed a pitch or two and had a nice evening on Broadway. Next morning we headed up with minimal idea of where to go. By mid afternoon the weather was looking very sketchy and I convinced Rains we should bail. We did, but it never rained. Always the cautious one ... that's me.
Liberty Crack w/ Rainsford Rouner
From July 25 till Aug 19th, it rained 17 out of a possible 26 days. Now that's frustrating when you're living on the road. At least we caught a nice short window for this climb. We walked up to the base of the cliff, saw this obvious crack system and went for it. We had no beta, no guide - just masters of the obvious.
An early attempt of the Andromeda Strain w/ Rainsford Rounder
Two visits in the summer of 76, the 2nd one resulting in an attempt on the as yet unclimbed rockies classic. Best that we didn't know what we were getting into. Backed off in steep aid late in the day. Rained hard the next day.
South Face w/ Mary Erdei and Rainsford Rounter
On our way to the Sierra after our trip to the Can Rocks, we stopped off in Leavenworth for a quick visit to Prussik Peak. Nice climb just far too short.
The Harding route w/ Rainsford Rouner and Starlight Pillar w/ Mary Erdei
Two of the best routes from the early years. The Harding route was interesting because we were a few pitches above them when Galen Rowell and friends were doing their historic FFA. After the Keeler Needle, Rains left for the Valley. I would catch up with him later, but before that I wanted to do Clyde with Mary. It was a wonderful trip into the unknown. If you have a copy of Roper's SC guide, you'll know what I mean. It was the first week of September. We had the South Fork all to ourselves. What's really sad about these two routes is that I lost most of the slides many years ago - long before I even had a scanner to preserve them.
New Dawn w/ Mark Hudon and Rainsford Rouner
After the Keeler Needle epic Rains left for the Valley to go catch up with Hud. Mary and I had gone to do the Starlight Pillar on Clyde. After that she went home and I went to the Valley. After some fun and free climbs, the three of us did New Dawn in 7 casual days including a rest day on El Cap Tower. The blank dihedrals were spooky to say the least!
|Destination:||A major excursion: Yosemite, RMNP, Tetons, Winds, Bugs, Sierras, and back to the Valley to finish up.|
|Timeframe:||April - September|
|Description:||The first real road trip. The one that set the stage for so many to follow. We left NH late in April and I got back to North Conway around Labor Day. Those were the days. Hard to believe I was able to leave for months on end, do it on a shoestring budget and still have a job at EMS when I got back. Of course nothing lasts forever, but while it did, this was good.|
South Face of Mt Watkins w/ Michael Hartrich and Walter Dembitsky
After we bailed on the Muir, Walter came roaring into Camp 4 demanding to climb with us because we all knew Rick Wilcox and he had done Half Dome with Rick the year before. And so we did. Had a great time on the wall
Springtime on Mt Whitney w/ Mary Erdei and Chip Cole - May 1975
Introduction to the Sierra. Late May, normal snow year. Pretty hot too. Back then the world was a different place and late May was not like it is today. We had the trail, the campsite and the mountain to ourselves. Priceless.
Yellow Wall to Table Ledge with Mark Richey - July 1975
Seeing the Diamond while hiking the Keyhole Route the year before fired up my desire to get on this wall. Mark and I were just getting started on our two month road trip. The cliff was wet and did our best to stay dry, but by the time we got to table ledge, all the vertical possibilities to the top were running with lots of water. So ... we traversed off.
Tetons & Wind River Range w/ Mark Richey
In the Tetons we knew we wanted to do the Black Ice Couloir. Only thing we knew about the Winds was we were headed to the Cirque. We had the old Bonney guide book to go by. The mosquitoes were ravenous. We did a route on the east face of Pingora and went back to Jackson.
East Face of Snowpatch attempt w/ Mark and Rainsford
The first thing I remember about the Bugaboos is that everyone expected that I would already know where they were. One visit was all it took to solve that issue. Rains, Mark and I arrived in the Bugaboos with no idea what we wanted to do. One look at the East Face of Snowpatch and we had a plan. The weather had it's own plans.
Mendel Couloir w/ Mark Richey and Rainsford Rouner
After our epic retreat from the East Face of Snowpatch the 'Californians' at the Kain Hut recommended we head south to Mt Mendel. Good advice that.
All alone on the Nose w/ Mark Richey and Rainsford Rouner
Most likely this happened because it was still hot in the valley. We'd just come from the high country and our Mendel Couloir climb and had just enough time for one more big adventure before it was time to head home. One highlight I'll never forget is Rains casually asking me about 2/3 of the way up the route .... 'what are we going to do about the dropped jumar?' What? Didn't even notice it fall off my rack. Dealing with that slowed us down a bit. Four nights out.
|Destination:||Yosemite Valley and Long's Peak|
|Timeframe:||April - June|
|Description:||A month in the valley and a trip up the Keyhole Route on Long's Peak in Colorado with my older brother. Setting the stage for longer trips to follow. Life would never be the same.|
The Prow w/ Jeff Pheasant
Don't recall all the details, but I took some kind of convoluted route thru Utah/Arizona to finally arrive in the Valley just about the time everyone else did. Did a few free climbs, but mostly I wanted to climb walls. The Phez and I had done our share of wall climbs in NH so this was a logical start on a bigger canvas.
The Salathe w/ Mark Hudon
For some unknown reason, after getting down from the Prow, Jeff wasn't too keen on doing the Big Stone. Lucky for me I meet up with Mark Hudon (Hud) who clearly was. On the Salathe, we fixed pitches and then went for it. Short storm at Mammoth and then fine weather the rest of the way. Not really knowing which way to go, we mistakenly walked out to the Tioga Road - in the snow.
Keyhole Route w/ Chip Cole
The 2nd of my mountain adventures with my older brother. Still in the air force he pulled some free time and we headed up into the park to have a go at the Keyhole Route. I was heading home from the Valley so this was good timing to hook up with Chip on my way east.