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HIGH SIERRA: STARLIGHT PEAK : Northwest Chute ~ Sept 25-27, 2018(50) images

It seems to me no resume of Sierra Climbing would be complete without doing a few of the 14ers along the Palisades crest. I'd done Thunderbolts West Ridge and the Swiss Arete on Sill back in 81 and 79 but have literally one slide to show for those two long ago adventures. Of all the "chute" climbs on the west side of the divide, it seemed like the Northwest Chute on Starlight had the most personality. Perhaps the West Face (5.4) of North Pal is a better option, but I could find zero beta on that route other than the sparse descriptions in various guides. So Starllight got the nod. Going over Thunderbolt Col on a really dry year makes almost no sense because you then need to drop down about 500' to find water. That experience was enough to convince me that after the climb I was going to return to Bishop Pass via the very scenic Knapsack Col. There is alot of beta on this route so I didn't have any issues with the route and near the top took the left hand option to reach the summit. I then climbed up a small pinnacle just SW of the Milk Bottle - one that is maybe 3-4 feet shorter in height and one I've never seen pics of climbers on the coveted boulder problem taken from. That was my summit. On the way down, the loose scree and gravel spoiled what was a pretty good route. I ended up doing 5 raps with a 7.7mm 50m rope. Note: album photo taken in May 2013  

LONG LAKE AND MT GOODE ON THE WAY TO BISHOP PASS

STARTING THE TRAVERSE TO THUNDERBOLT COL

THE NECESSARY LARGE BOULDER TERRAIN THAT GETS YOU TO THUNDERBOLT COL

DRAMATIC LOCALE AT THUNDERBOLT COL

BIVY SITE BELOW THE WEST FACE OF STARLIGHT-NORTH PALISADE

LOOKING UP AT THUNDERBOLT COL AND SW CHUTE #1 FROM BIVYSITE

SUNSET VIEW OF BARRETT LAKE INTO THE HEART OF KINGS CANYON NAT PARK

SUNSET VIEW OF THE WEST SIDE OF STARLIGHT

ANOTHER SUNSET VIEW OF THE ROUTE WITH APPROX LINE OF THE STD NW CHUTE, STARLIGHT PEAK, PALISADES

SUNSET VIEW OF THUNDERBOLT, STARLIGHT AND NORTH PAL

8AM START ON A COLD LATE SEPT DAY

LOOKING AT THE START OF THE CHUTE AND THE CHOKE POINTS WHERE YOU NEED TO EXIT RIGHT

NICE TERRAIN ABOVE AND TO THE RIGHT OF THE INITIAL CHUTE

LOOKING OVER AT THE WEST RIDGE OF THUNDERBOLT FROM THE NORTHWEST CHUTE OF STARLIGHT

ONE THING YOU CAN SAY ABOUT THIS ROUTE IS THAT YOU ARE SURROUNDED BY DRAMATIC TERRAIN EVEN IF YOU AREN'T PART OF IT

THE WELL DOCUMENTED WRIGHT LEDGE TRAVERSE

SNACK TIME BEFORE CROSSING THE TRAVERSE

LOOKING ACROSS THE TRAVERSE TO THE 'WATERFALL PITCH' AND THE START OF THE UPPER GULLY

LOOKING AT THE UPPER CHUTE, SLABS AND EVENTUAL CHOICE OF THE MAIN NOTCH FINISH OR THE LITTLE NOTCH TO THE LEFT

ANOTHER HUGE TOWER HOVERING WAY OVER YOUR HEAD

LOOKING DOWN THE STARLIGHT CHUTE FROM NEAR THE TOP

DECISION TIME: STRIAGHT UP TO THE STARLIGHT-NORTH PAL NOTCH OR LEFT TO THE SOMEWHAT EASIER FIINISH

THE LEFT HAND FINISH TO THE ROUTE

STARTING UP THE LEFT HAND FINISH TO THE ROUTE

SOME NICE CLIMBING ON THE LEFT HAND FINISH TO THE ROUTE

LOOKING OVER AT NORTH PALISADE FROM NEAR THE TOP OF STARLIGHT

THE MILK BOTTLE APPEARS AT LAST

LOOKING DOWN TO THE STEEP FINISH FROM WHERE THE ANGLE FINALLY RELENTS

THE MILK BOTTLE FROM AN EASIER TO GET TO SPIRE BESIDE IT

NORTH PALISADE FROM STARLIGHT

THE EVER SHRINKING NORTH PALISADE GLACIER FROM THE TOP OF STARLIGHT

A VIEW TO THE SOUTH: BIRCH, THUMB, ED LANE, CLYDE, MIDDLE AND DISAPPOINTMENT

LOOIKING DOWN TO LAKES IN PALISADE BASIN FROM THE TOP OF STARLIGHT

PARTWAY DOWN THE LONG UNINSPIRING DESCENT OF STARLIGHT

LOOKING OUT TO PALISADE BASIN FROM THE TOP OF THE WATERFALL PITCH, STARLIGHT CHUTE

ZOOMED IN VIEW OF THE TOP OF THE WATERFALL PITCH AND THE WRIGHT LEDGE TRAVERSE, STARLIGHT CHUTE

HALFWAY ACROSS THE WRIGHT LEDGE TRAVERSE, STARLIGHT CHUTE

THE TRAVERSE, THE WATERFALL PITCH BEFORE THE UPPER CHUTE DOG LEGS TO THE LEFT, STARLIGHT PEAK

FIFTH AND LAST RAP BACK INTO THE SW CHUTE #2

SHORELINE BARRETT LAKE, WEST SIDE, PALISADES

LATE AFTERNOON ON THE PLEASANT WALK OVER TO KNAPSACK COL

END OF THE DAY VIEW BACK TO THE PALISADES FROM KNAPSACK COL

WEST SIDE DESCENT OF KNAPSACK COL

END OF THE DAY REFLECTION AS I REACH WATER AND START TO LOOK FOR A PLACE TO BIVY

BIVY SITE THE NEXT MORNING

A BIT MORE SHR TERRAIN EVENTUALLY RE-CONNECTS YOU WITH THE BISHOP PASS TRAIL

MORNING VIEW OF THE WEST SIDE OF THE PALISADES

ARROWHEAD AND LONG LAKES ON THE WALK OUT

FALL COLOR HAS ARRIVED

FINISH LINE

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