A TIMELINE OF TRIPS AND ADVENTURES
2023
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Name: West 2023 Destination: Wind River Range Timeframe: July Description: Over almost from the start, this trip carried on for a month but really was done after the first foray into the Southern Winds. An injured left foot more or less came out of nowhere. I limped thru two additional adventures before throwing in the towel. Consolation took the form of numerous scenic drives throughout Wyoming and over to Mazama, WA. After a visit there I took four days of roundabout driving back to Vedauwoo before heading home from Denver shortly thereafter. As I write this a month later, the foot is better, but it's not back to normal either.
The Albums:
WIND RIVER RANGE - WIND RIVER PEAK
An early summer ascent of the southern most 13er
A good start to what was hopefully a long successful season in the Winds
2022
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Name: West 2022 Destination: Wind River Range and Bighorn Mts Timeframe: Aug-Sept Description: An open ended trip never has a defined ending. Most times it's weather, location and other commitments. This year it turned out to be smoke and Covid. They both arrived about the same time. August, thankfully, had been entirely smoke free and I kept reasonably busy doing my backcountry thing. After Labor Day, the Monsoon season in the Wind River Range ended, and as such the prevailing westerlies blew in a bunch of smoke from Idaho. At some point during the first week of September, I was exposed to and contracted Covid - not with standing my 2 vaccine and 2 booster shots. The only time I spent more than a few minutes inside was at the library in Pinedale. Hard to believe I could have contracted Covid there, but I'm harded pressed to imagine where else it might have happened. I thought at first it was the result of smoke exposure, which can result in similar symptoms. Eventually I took an Antigen test that dispelled that assumption. By then I had been in Colorado's IPW for a bit, but kept on as if nothing other than an sinus issue was crimping my style. That is until I tested positive. I isolated all summer, except for when Chuck was in town. I'm still confused. Either way, I felt weak and after a week of driving around and getting up for strategic sunrise locations, I headed south to Denver to visit family before heading home on the 22nd.
The Albums:
After what I would have to call a disappointing start to the season, I headed east to the Bighorns via a very scenic but convoluted route up over Beartooth Pass, the Red Grade Road and eventually up thru Tensleep Canyon to the trailhead. The idea was that the popular and easily accessible summit of Cloud Peak would get me back on track. It was easy and perhaps I should have done some additional exploring while in the Misty Moon Lake region, but I didn't so a quick trip up Cloud Peak only took 3 days before I headed back to the Winds and my rendezvous with Chuck, my brother-in-law from Mazama.
WIND RIVER RANGE - PEAK LAKE AND BOW MT LOOP
A revisit to Titcomb Basin and Peak Lake after a 32 year absence.
2021
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Name: West 2021 Destination: Sierra Nevada in May early June. Family time and North Cascades in the 2nd half of June. Followed by Northern Rockies (Wind River Range and Bighorns) in July / August. A pretty big agenda. Only time would tell what the results would look like. As of late June I'm happy to say it has gone well - the big heat dome not with standing. Timeframe: May-Aug Description: The intent for this trip was to get really fit in the Sierra before heading east to WY for July/August. No real game plan for California other than to see some locations I hadn't yet visited and tag a few more summits on my flexible tick list. Wyoming on the other hand has more of a tick list but one that is as always flexible based on conditions and morale. In the end the 2nd half of this plan came up empty handed. Smoke and heat arrived when I did post 4th of July. Got kind of old eventually and I reset for next year.
The Albums:
East Ridge
The first springtime adventure in the High Sierra since 2015. Long overdue. After a warmup hike/climb of Mt Starr above Mono Pass, it was time to spend some time in a region I had only briefly visited in 2014. A day trip to Sawmill Pass is probably done all the time. But from there I knew little or nothing about the Woods Lake Basin. A Peaks for Freaks trip report showed an awesome view of the North side of Mt Acrodectes. The TR reported that the East Ridge scramble was quite nice. So, with 3 nights of food I headed back up to Sawmill Pass - starting at 4:45am to beat the heat. Couldn't find a campsite below the pass so ended up going all the way over and down to a nice little tarn at about 11,000'.. From there I had a beautiful view of the area and the the peak itself.
up one side and down another
Have always wanted to climb Mills particularly after seeing it from the summit ridge of Abbot in 2012. Like others I would prefer to do the North Couloir but the approach is long. In this case I got my wish but having climbed the left hand East Face gully, I was not at all interested in descending the same way. That left few choices. Since I'd always wanted to see the Fourth Recess and it was only 9am when I summited, I decided to down climb the North Couloir and wrap around back to Mono Pass the long and scenic way. That it was. Left the truck at 3:30am and got back at 7:30pm. Sixteen miles / 16 hours. What a day.
Northwest Face
Another long day climb though in this case it was the reverse of last week. Longer climb shorter hike. Still round trip to Bishop Pass and 2000' of climbing added up to a 12 hour day. Only flaw in an otherwise great day was the choice of descent. Once again I didn't want to downclimb the long snowy ascent. Instead I opted for trying to find a rocky ridge. But, from the top, the view of your choices is not clear. Long story short, I choose poorly. Way too far to the west in the choosy gullies. Ugh. Still, another great spring day in the High Sierra
Northwest Ridge
The last big effort of the 2021 season. Seems like May is already a distant memory now that the crowds, heat and bugs have arrived in the high country. On my long but scenic approach via Rush Creek / Spookey Canyon I lost count of the huge numbers of PCT thru hikers - some doing sections, others going for the full enchilada. One thing I did not see this entire season is another climber. Kind of odd. Anyway, the std route on Lyell is a real classic. As usual it seems at odds with the Secor description of the route rated at class 2-3. While the summit ridge is indeed class two, the fine solid rock found on the face just left of the upper col is not class 3. If it is, it's 3+ no fall climbing. Steep, solid and gifted with holds in all the right places. Most likely there are other ways to go, but the intuitive way was even marked by several small cairns. Down-climbing the route is definitely the crux. The view from the top is not to be missed.
2020
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Name: West 2020 Destination: Northern Rockies Timeframe: Aug Description: Perhaps the trip that shouldn't have been. Started off well enough and it did include alot of family time, but it also was the year of wildfires, smoke, COVID, tendonitis and early Sept snow in WY/CO. Thus Labor Day found me back in Denver and headed home after six weeks on the road.
The Albums:
A return to Arrowhead Peak after 38 years.
A somewhat ambitious plan to start with. That's only natural. In the end we spent five days in the Winds rather than seven But I did get up Arrowhead on the 3rd day. Day 4 we decided to start the hike out. A good decision as day 5 was not so nice, particularly that evening - seen from the comfort of downtown Pinedale. A one day storm, but I'm glad we weren't camped up above treeline when it blew through. There were so many people on the trail to Island Lake that any bears were probably elsewhere. Crowded is the only word to describe the Northern Winds this year.
2019
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Name: West 2019 Destination: Northern Rockies & California Timeframe: Aug - Sept Description: Again on the way to California, I spent time in the Medicine Bow mts, Indian Peaks Wilderness and the Cloud Peak Wilderness in the Bighorns. One hike, two climbs. Good stuff.
The Albums:
Shoshoni to Apache Traverse
Shoshoni to Apache - the so called Kasparov Traverse. Great fun with something for everyone. I needed to keep moving and age being what it is, I only climbed the White Knight. Not having a rope means you do have to find a way around the short rap off the last Chessman to get to the saddle where the final climb of the north ridge begins. Not hard, just took a while to find it. The descent from the summiit of Apache to Isabelle Lake is long and tedious. Round trip took me about 10 hours.
South Ridge
An exciting, intricate ridge route on solid rock. It's proximity to the Innominate only adds to the setting. Careful but easy to follow raps down the north side of the peak is the standard way of getting off this dramatic peak. I would gladly do the long walk in to do this route again!
2018
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Name: West 2018 Destination: Northern Rockies & California Timeframe: Aug - Sept Description: Did some hikes in Wyoming on the way out. Visited the Medicine Bow Range and hiked out to Mistymoon Pass in the Bighorns. That's a place I want to return to next year. This year I was determined to get back into climbing so I focused almost entirely on doing so. The first three trips included Emerson, Matterhorn and Starlight. Each climb was unique in it's own special way. After the Palisades a batch of rain/snow came thru so my finale this year was a quick three day loop hike on the front side of the Ritter Range. Again I started in Rush Creek and went in via Summit Lake.
The Albums:
Mt Emerson Southeast Face
Given it's short approach and reputation as a fun climb, Emerson seemed like the perfect start to the fall campaign. I was feeling the need to actually climb while out here and really hadn't done so since 2014. I spent the day wondering if I was off route, and while I can imagine there are many ways to do this route, I did hit the all important notch up at about 12,700' where the fun begins.
Matterhorn - West Ridge
In 1983 after a big snow year, Mary Erdei and I came to the area to climb the North Arete. After an epic approach during which one of our dogs almost drowned as she got carried away in the ragging horse creek and almost disappeared into a snow hole, only to be snatched from the jaws of death at the last second we soberly carried on and setup camp beneath the climb. This was another route we did back then where all slides and for that matter most memories are lost in time. This year (2018) I came back with the intention of seeing more of the area and climbing the peak by a route I could comfortable solo. The standard SW slopes has no appeal to me and only recently I read a trip report of a more suitable alternative being the West Ridge from Burro Pass. With that in mind, I put together what I hoped would be a nice scenic route there and back. Warm days and cold nights were standard fare for the four and a half days this trip took.
Northwest Chute
It seems to me no resume of Sierra Climbing would be complete without doing a few of the 14ers along the Palisades crest. I'd done Thunderbolts West Ridge and the Swiss Arete on Sill back in 81 and 79 but have literally one slide to show for those two long ago adventures. Of all the "chute" climbs on the west side of the divide, it seemed like the Northwest Chute on Starlight had the most personality. Perhaps the West Face (5.4) of North Pal is a better option, but I could find zero beta on that route other than the sparse descriptions in various guides. So Starllight got the nod. Going over Thunderbolt Col on a really dry year makes almost no sense because you then need to drop down about 500' to find water. That experience was enough to convince me that after the climb I was going to return to Bishop Pass via the very scenic Knapsack Col. There is alot of beta on this route so I didn't have any issues with the route and near the top took the left hand option to reach the summit. I then climbed up a small pinnacle just SW of the Milk Bottle - one that is maybe 3-4 feet shorter in height and one I've never seen pics of climbers on the coveted boulder problem taken from. That was my summit. On the way down, the loose scree and gravel spoiled what was a pretty good route. I ended up doing 5 raps with a 7.7mm 50m rope. Note: album photo taken in May 2013
2015
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Name: Spring 2015 Destination: California High Sierra Timeframe: May - June Description: Spring 2015 was different kind of year for me. After a lean winter the weather in May was mostly unstable and short storms were the norm. The weather never really stabilized. I got in alot of miles but my success ratio was not much to write home about. The weather was OK for a hike to Baxter Pass, Bullfrog Lake and a climb of Muir. After that the weather changed and never really recovered. During this period I did trips to Baker Lake, South Fork of Tuttle Creek and Finger Lake. By the end of the month there was more snow up high than when I had arrived at the end of April.
The Albums:
Std West Face Route
Another snowy April left me looking for a day route that would help with conditioning and tag a summit. Most of the low hanging fruit had been plucked. A return to the Whitney region turned out to be just the ticket. Hadn't been there since 1981. The std route on Muir is a shadow of the big east face, but still a worthy route as the summit block contains some nice stout bouldering which to me seemed more 4th class than not - at least the way I went.
2014
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Name: Spring 2014 Destination: California High Sierra Timeframe: May - June Description: Spring 2014 in the High Sierra was a shorter version of the previous two years.
The Albums:
Northwest Face
What started out as yet another trip to Kearsarge Pass turned into something far nicer. I happened to have brought ice tools with me so one look at the NW side of University Peak was more than enough temptation to veer left and go climbing. Good route but a tedious descent down from University Pass back to Onion Valley.
East Ridge
This climb was never high on my list of things to do, but given that April had been a snowy month, it made sense to go here while giving the snow a chance to melt. Didn't get the classic clear sunrise on day 2 but other than that it was a fun route with enough snow to give it a little spice.
Northeast Face
Arrived at the pass without a real agenda. Since I'm always keen to avoid boulder hopping in favor of snow, I saw right away a nice line on Tyndall -to the right of the 'rib' - that would be exactly that.
2013
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Name: Spring 2013 Destination: California High Sierra Timeframe: May - June Description: 2013 in the High Sierra was very similar to the year before. The 2nd drought year and again a very productive trip.
The Albums:
Kearsarge Pass -Mt Gould
Coming from NH, a couple of warm up hikes is always a good thing. Included here are the two hikes done to get acclimatized. Palisade Glacier to 12,000' and Mt Gould to 13,000'. Two years ago in the big winter/spring of 2011 I'd been blown off of Gould as I started up from the pass. Bit anti-climatic this time around, though the bouldering at the top was quite nice.
Northeast Face
While Langley was fun, it was time to do some actual climbing. Popular peak so there were some other climbers camped at Dade Lake. Clear cold nights. About a half inch of new ice formed over my water source each night. Climbing was fun. Bit of route finding to keep the grade under control.
Northwest Ridge
With a little over a week before Betsy and family arrived I needed to get in a few more climbs before the tempo changed. This peak has been on my tick list for a long time. With section of snow all the way up the route, it was far more interesting than it would have been without. Glad I brought a 120' rope for the numerous raps I made to speed up the descent. Nice thunderstorm 2nd afternoon. I had already decided to move down to a nice site I know just off the Piute Pass trail. Got there just as it started to come down in earnest. Really nice sunset afterwords.
Southeast Ridge
Bit of a walk up but you can at least keep it aesthetic by looking for harder ways to stay on solid rock. Hot spell moving thru the area that weekend so the snow barely froze. Post holing up from Sam Mack Meadow. Finally got solid up around 12+. Was really slushly on the way down. Walked all the way back to the old walk in campground on the north fork trail that afternoon. Nice to have a picnic table to sit at while killing time.
2012
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Name: Spring 2012 Destination: California High Sierra Timeframe: May - June Description: The first of the drought years. It was also the start of really good early season access to the Sierra backcountry. Also the best weather ever. A very productive visit for sure. Towards the end as the mosquitoes arrived Betsy came out for a visit. We did a number of day hikes and then one 3 day trip to Dusy Basin.
The Albums:
Harrington Couloir
First of several day climbs. Long days but a good way to get in shape. Nice route. Long summit ridge. Hadn't thought much about how to get down. The only obvious descent seemed to be the via the North Ridge.
North Face
Second of several day climbs. Easy day climb as the distances involved are less. Interesting approach. Arrived at the lakes at sunrise and found a very reasonable way thru the big boulders above the last meadow. Climb was somewhat melted out at the top.
Std East Face Route
After the storm, I did this, the third of several day climbs. Nice route. Beautiful sunrise approach. Fair amount of new snow gave it the alpine look and covered all the loose choss on the std route traverse out to the shoulder. Bit spicy climbing back down thru that section on the descent
North Face / N Ridge
This route comes with a longer approach so I did it as a casual 3 day trip. Great campsites above Hungry Packer and at Topsy Turvy on the way out. Thought I was doing the NW RIdge, and though I am still not totally convinced of what is what, I fell like the route I did was the North Ridge. One of the best routes I've ever done. Little bit of everything on a classic peak. Only wish it was longer. Time of year is important here. The alpine flavor means this is definitely a spring time route.
Engram Couloir
Had long wanted to repeat this route. Walking by it on the way to Thompson only solidified that desire. Snow was melting fast but there was still time for one more snow route before the approaches become tedious piles of scree..
HIGH SIERRA: Sierra High Route
7 day - Loop Hike
A high quality loop starting at Piute Pass going north to Granite Park, over Italy Pass, thru Bear Lakes and up to Feather Pass where I made a quick trip up the SW Ridge of Feather. I then continued down to a shoulder above Merriam Lake where I spent my 5th night. Very early start the next day got me down to French Canyon before the bugs woke up. From there it was a race back up Piute Creek to get above treeline and the swarms of mosquitos. I spent the last night just west of the pass listening to the coyotes all over the valley. Perfect weather. Only saw four people - all at Feather Pass.
2011
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Name: Spring 2011 Destination: California High Sierra Timeframe: May - June Description: I can't ski anymore due to fused ankles but I did get to climb Independence and Basin with Rob after which I got to watch him strap on the boards and rip it up. I on the hand got to boot it down those long mellow slopes trying not to get too far behind. We then did a very alpine ascent of Dade's north face followed by some Gorge time. After Rob left, I headed south to have a go at the North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak. A heady finish to a fairly short visit to the area. But, the pattern was set and I would be back once or twice a year till I can't do this stuff anymore.
The Albums:
HIGH SIERRA: Independence Peak
North East Gully
I arrived about a week before Rob did, so did some wamr up hikes to get acclimatized. Rob showed with skiis which was ideal for the big snow year of 2011. So, first few adventures focused on that. Ankle issues being what they are, I don't ski anymore so just plunge stepped down chasing after Rob who was long gone.
East Couloir
Another ski day. Longer approach made longer because we couldn't get the Honda 'E' close to the trailhead. Decent climbing to get to the summit. Snow was not so good.
North Face
Pretty much the perfect day. Not the best conditions as we sort of swam up the route. But that added some spice to the climbing as we were climbing without a rope or gear.
North Ridge
With all the beta now available, I thought I had enough to do this route alone. No rock shoes, no helmet, no gear rope or harness. Perhaps an unskillful choice. But doing it alone on a snowy year in Trangos was intense. Route finding was as challenging as the climbing. Turns out I think Secor's description is the most accurate. Started early and was back at camp by lunch.
2009
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Name: Spring 2009 Destination: Return to the Sierra Timeframe: May - June Description: After the long fruitless drive to Rogers Pass the summer before, I decided it might be time to redirect my energies to a range where the weather was more reliable.
The Albums:
North Face
Return to the Sierra. Lots of snow that spring. This was a good warm up and a visit to a place I hadn't seen before. Fairly low angle slopes on the north face, but still a nice place to be.
NW Face
Really small window in an otherwise miserable stretch of weather. Fair amount of new but stable snow. Lakes were still frozen so the approach was quite simple. Climb while short was fun. Had hoped to climb Goethe from the north side but conditions weren't that good and there was plenty of evidence of natural avalanches all over the cirque. This climb was definitely the safe bet.
2008
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Name: West 2008 Destination: Beartooths and Selkirks Timeframe: August Description: After taking two summers off from travel - one for the ankle recovery and the next to build an addition on our house - I was ready to get back at it.
The Albums:
Granite Peak the Hard Way
Want to see the best this mountain has to offer. do a loop up huckleberry and out via the FTD. Oh yeah, and you get to take your kit with you most of the way.
2005
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Name: West 2005 Destination: North Cascades - Not ready for prime time Timeframe: August Description: Kim and I had plans for Stuart but changed them at the last second for Torment / Forbidden. We weren't really ready to commit to that route and started off by approaching it the wrong way. After a token attempt on the not so stellar rock on Torment, we bailed. The next morning we had an epic hike out getting thoroughly lost trying to shortcut the descent of Torment Basin. Two weeks later I was home and went under the knife to fuse my mostly worthless left ankle.
The Albums:
A rather lame attempt to climb Torment w/ Kim Smith
Off and on rain showers and our lack of motivation resulted in a half hearted attempt on the standard route to Torment. The lack of any redeeming features or rock quality was enough to make even that not something we wanted to finish.
2004
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Name: West 2004 Destination: North Cascades and Beartooths Timeframe: July - August Description: Kim Smith and I did the Backbone Arete and eventually I ended up in Bozeman with Eric where I went off to solo the NE Ridge of Cowen.
The Albums:
Backbone Arete w/ Kim Smith
Done in a long hot day during a major heat wave with forest fires in the area. Quality does not compare to what is found on Stuart.
NE Arete
After a week of bad weather everywhere, Eric Scranton and I ran out of time (or he did to be more accurate). Back in Bozeman he and his then girlfriend Bobbie recommended Cowen as a good thing I could do alone. Bobbie's only comment was that I should make note of the fact that this region was on the edge of griz habitat. Okay.
2003
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Name: West 2003 Destination: Another short road trip to the North Cascades Timeframe: August Description: After a bit of time in the Needles and an aborted trip to Gannett, Bets and I ended up having a go at Frostbite Ridge on Glacier Peak.
The Albums:
Frostbite Ridge attempt w/ Betsy Harrison - solo ascent a week later
Two late summer visits to one of the more isolated volcanos in the Cascades. The first attempt was more memorable, the 2nd was an anti-climatic success.
2002
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Name: West 2002 Destination: North Cascades and SW B.C Timeframe: July - August Description: Betsy, Chuck and Eric joined me for various climbs in the region.
The Albums:
Standard Route from Hannegan Pass w/ Betsy Harrison
Fun route on a pretty peak with some great camping just below treeline - a great introduction to snow and glacier travel for Betsy
GARIBALDI PROV PARK / THE WEDGE
Solo climb of the classic NE Ridge
Looking for an alpine peak with a legitimate snow/ice route in the summer is not all that easy. In the states, its darn near impossible. In Canada ... well that's another story.
NE Buttress w/ Eric Scranton
Yet another BC classic with a deceptively spooky approach thru the somewhat chaotic pocket glacier that varies from year to year. A one day route for some, but for most of us and ideal 2day climb with water and a big ledge mid-way up the buttress
2000
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Name: West 2000 Destination: Short road trip to Colorado and Wyoming Timeframe: July - August Description: The first of the hot wild fire summers.
The Albums:
Hot and Smokey at Middle Fork Lake w/ Betsy Harrison
The summer of 2000 was a confusing time. Temps in the 90's in Jackson Hole, something was clearly wrong. No better in the Winds. Throw in some local forest fire activity and it made for an alltogether different trip.
1999
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Name: Mt Hood - 1999 Destination: Timeframe: July Description:
The Albums:
A guided ascent of the standard route
Also a gig for me shooting the trip for Outdoor Explorer w/ Steve Madden
1998
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Name: Summer 1998 Destination: Another trip to Assiniboine Timeframe: Juy - August Description: Better conditions than the year before. Notable also as it was the beginning of the 'troubles' that a year later would result in an appendectomy two weeks after getting home from Nepal.
The Albums:
Back a year later w/ Dave Mention, Betsy Harrison & Rob and Sue Garneau
After being somewhat unprepared for full on alpine conditions the year before, we returned the next year with Rob, Sue and Betsy joining us. Again we had the hut to ourselves until the last night.
1997
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Name: West 1997 Destination: A long road trip from late July to November served up in two parts. Went to Assiniboine, the Bugaboos, Challenger, Adams and Daniel. Other than a couple of routes I'd done before in the Bugs, I can up empty on the rest. Then Betsy flew into Seattle and we shifted into rock climbing mode. Went to Squamish, Smith, City and Red Rocks before making the long drive home in late November. Timeframe: July - November Description: Assiniboine to Red Rocks
The Albums:
An introduction to the Assiboine region w/ Dave Mention
My interest in Assiniboine began when I reconnected with Dave Mention who I had lost track of after our trip to Gasherbrum II in 1991. He was keen to get back out there and I had always wanted to do more stuff with him. An idea became a plan.
N CASCADES: ATTEMPT CHALLENGER
An attempt from Perfect Pass w/ Chip Cole
Sometimes described as the "perfect" climb in the North Cascades, an ascent of Mt Challenger is more than just a climb.
1994
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Name: West 1994 Destination: Late summer trip to Colorado, British Columbia and Wyoming Timeframe: July - September Description: Betsy and I drove out to hook up with Chip for his final 14'ers in Colorado. After that I wanted Bets to see the classic Needles Range in the San Juans. We took the train from Silverado and had a great time doing the Chicago / Ruby Lake loop. After she flew home I drove up to Jackson hooking up with Mike Keating. We then headed north to the Can Rocks where we promptly go our egos thrashed by the nature of climbing on limestone on Mt Sir Douglas. The looseness of that rock and the humiliation that went with it fresh in our minds we quickly headed south to the Winds and some classic solid granite. I still had a tick list I wanted to deal with. We tagged two of the three routes on that list. Ambush and Bollinger we got, Warrior One we didn't.
The Albums:
CAN ROCKS: ATTEMPT MOUNT SIR DOUGLAS
An attempt on the East Ridge w/ Mike Keating
A humbling introduction to the uncertainties of climbing on limestone in the Canadian Rockies.
WIND RIVER RANGE: AMBUSH & BOLLINGER
Ambush and Bollinger w/ Mike Keating
Bollinger is one of the 3 best climbs I've done in the winds. The other two are the 'West Face Dihedral on Fremont Peak' and the 'West Face of Lost Temple Spire'. Only the Fremont climb is in the guide book. The other two we never reported.
1992
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Name: Winter 1992 Destination: Six weeks of backcountry skiing and climbing in Jackson Hole Timeframe: December - January Description: A great six week visit to the Tetons. I drove out with Earl and Glenna in their VW camper. We meet various friends out there who came and went. Most of the trip was devoted to skiing. I did do a 3 night excursion up Death Canyon and out Cascade Canyon by myself. Conditions were really stable during our stay so this kind of trip was quite doable. Sadly I lost most of the image from the trip.
The Albums:
Winter climbing in the Tetons
Last thing we did on that great 6 weeks in the Tetons was to skin up into Garnet Canyon for some climbing. The Grand was getting plenty of attention. Getting up early would have helped - ended up over in the South Fork on Cloudveil and Spaulding.
1990
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Name: West 1990 Destination: Another road trip west Timeframe: July - September Description: By July I was back on the road. After a quick visit with Mark in the Tetons, I headed north for yet another visit to the Bugs. We started as a threesome. After Sue went home Guy Johnson and I went back to the Bugs, did some Can Rocks time and finished up a nice trip with a big loop hike/climb in the Winds.
The Albums:
A trip to the Lower Saddle and another up the E Ridge of Owen
To the saddle with Mark Whiton, Koven Route on Owen by myself and also some local scenics.
A whole bunch of time in the Bugs with Guy Johnson and Sue McCowen
Sort of an intro to alpine rock climbing for Guy and Sue. We had pretty good luck with the weather and did a bunch of fine climbs. Broke it into two parts as Sue had a real job and couldn't stay as long as Guy. Back then it was still okay to camp on the Vowell side of Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col. Oh those were the days.
Just another roadside attraction along the Icefields Parkway
Take a number if you would please. Temps were warming up fast. Almost too warm, but we squeezed in this climb before the freezing level went way way up. After that we spent some time around Edith Cavell and Robson. Too warm to do anything but enjoy the view.
Peak Lake - Titcomb Loop including Tower 1 Couloir w/ Guy Johnson
After our long stay in the Bugaboos and Can Rocks, Guy and I headed south for one last adventure in the Winds - a tour of the Peak Lake area.
1989
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Name: West 1989 Destination: Another long summer trip w/ Dale Navish Timeframe: July - September Description: 88 went so well, Dale and I decided we needed more of the same. First we went to the Bugs. Then Gary Kuehn joined us for Rainier and Waddington. After that Dale and I dropped down to the Tetons and Winds. We were pretty much out of gas by the time we got to Devils Tower and the cold fall winds were enough to convince us it was time to head home.
The Albums:
BUGABOOS: ATTEMPT NORTH HOWSER TOWER
An attempt of All Along the Watchtower w/ Dale Navish
Unlike the 81 attempt which barely got off the ground before stonefall drove us off the Rowell route, this time we decided to have a go at All Along the Watchtower. Things went well until half way thru the 2nd day when Dale took a fall and tweaked the tendon in a finger on his right hand. That kind of spooked him and any interest he had in continuing. We were short of water and would have certainly run out before the top. I was keen to continue and for once I didn't want to bail. We rapped, found a ledge and the next day got back to the hut via Bill's Pass. I still think about this one alot.
Regular route w/ Dale Navish and Gary Kuehn
A weekend sprint and a brush with the law. That would be the two things I remember most about an August 89 climb of the regular route (DC) on Mt Rainier.
Bravo Glacier Route w/ Dale Navish & Gary Kuehn
After such a great summer in 88 it seemed logical to turn it up a notch in 89. What was needed was a trip ... a bigger peak. Waddington seemed like a logical choice. Joining Dale and I this year was our friend from the Dartmouth Ice Lab - Gary Kuehn. When asked what he did at the lab, Gary replied, "I break ice".
Direct Exum and NW Couloir Middle w/ Dale Navish
After Waddington Gary left for other commitments while Dale and I headed for the Tetons. We hauled some gear up the Jackson Hole Mt Guides basecamp, and as there were no clients there, we got to stay in the deluxe vinyl tent. Great weather the whole trip. On our way out of Garnet Canyon.we took a short detour so we could do Irene's Arete.
W Face Lost Temple Spire w/ Dale Navish
Couldn't get enough of this route and was keen to have Dale do it too. This was the last adventure of our big western tour that started back in July. A couple days after we left they got 10" of snow
1988
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Name: West 1988 Destination: Back on the road to all the usual locations and some new ones. Timeframe: May - September Description: After my divorce I felt a strong need to get back to what I did best - travel and climb. Started with some backpacking in RMNP, Wasatch, San Juans and Elk Range before heading up to Cascades for almost a month of climbing, skiing and backpacking. After that it was Canada time and a return to the Bugs and Mt Robson. There was a bit of Lake Louise and a day at Smoke Bluffs at Squamish before the money ran out and it was time to head home and get some work. Throw in some family time coming and going, and all told I was gone three and a half months.
The Albums:
North Ridge w/ Dave Goodman
Done in perfect weather in a not so normal fashion. Up and down in a day from the standard bivy site. Climbing without bivy kit made the route alot more enjoyable.
Northwest Face w/ Dave Goodman
I spent alot of time in the North Cascades during the Summer of 88. One of the best things I did was the NW Face of Forbidden Peak with Dave Goodman. We had been around for awhile and wanted to do one more alpine climb before going our own ways.
Bugaboo Spire - Midnight Route - w/ Mark Whiton and Dale Navish
Dale and I arrived in the Bugs intent on taking a trip up the Midnight Route. When Mark arrived we became a threesome and had a great time on the route. It was a big intro for Dale doing a route this big. He lead the last pitch to the bivy on the NE Ridge and got there just about midnight. I think this was the 2nd ascent. Weather went south after that, but we stuck around for a few more days before heading over to Lake Louise.
Chouinard Route w/ Mark Whiton and Dale Navish
After our time in the Bugs, it only made sense to move east to the Can Rocks for a go at some of the classics over there.
Mt Robson w/ Dale Navish
Thinking of Jay. After Jay's death the year before, I couldn't help thinking of him when Dale and I went back to finish the line Jay and I had started. An almost perfect 3 days it was. We found a beautiful line thru the cliff band to the right of the Roof Glacier and had the mountain to ourselves.
1986
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Name: West 1986 Destination: A long varied trip from the end of July until the first week of November Timeframe: July - November Description: This was another two part adventure. Mary only had so much time given her teaching commitments. After she headed home I spent time in the Tetons, Enchantment Lake region, Wasatch, Canyonland, Escalante and the San Juans. I meet up with family and friends at most of these locations.
The Albums:
Lonesome Lake blues - last visit w/ Mary Erdei
This would be the last trip to the Winds for Mary and I. Soon we would go our own ways. After a quick trip up Pingora we went looking for the North Face of Warrior I. We could not find the start and eventually gave up.
The Grand and Middle w/ Mark Whiton
Somehow Mark and I had lost track of each other after Conness and this at last was a welcome reunion. He was working for Jackson Hole Mountaineering so we had access to the their high camp for a few days. Before and after that I did a bit of backpacking up above Death Canyon and up at Solitude Lake
1985
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Name: West 1985 Destination: The second half of a year spent on the road. Timeframe: July - August Description: After a few days in Omaha we go to Devils Tower on the 18th of July. After 3 days there we got in a half wet day at Lumpy Ridge and visit with family in Denver. We then spent almost a month in the Wind River Range spread over a week in the Temple Lakes / Cirque and two glorious weeks in Titcomb Basin. We were back in Denver by the 21st and home to NH a week later.
The Albums:
Deep Lake / Cirque of the Towers w/ Mary Erdei
The first half of the great summer trip to the Winds was spent climbing Lost Temple Spire and Wolfs Head. The weather was great and, unlike now, there were few if any people in the area. There was however, one classic, violent thunderstorm late night on July 30th at Lonesome Lake.
Titcomb Basin w/ Mary Erdei, Rainsford Rouner and Gustavo Brillembourg
1985 was without a doubt the most productive summer I ever spent in the Winds. The weather was just about perfect the entire time. Initially there were six of us camped up near Mistake Lake. We got packed in though the cowboy dropped us short below lower Titcomb Lake even though he'd promised to take our gear to Upper Titcomb Lake.
1984
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Name: West 1984 Destination: The beginning of almost 4 months away from home. A few cliimbs, but mostly a trip of exploration and getting to know the desert Timeframe: August - November Description:
The Albums:
Yellow Wall to Table Ledge w/ John and Phil
Planned on a roped solo but after meeting John and Phil, we decided to work together. Fixed a few pitches and went for it the next morning. Spent a wonderful night on the summit after the traverse off on Table Ledge. Took the old cable route down to the Boulderfield.
BUGABOOS: ATTEMPT BUGABOO SPIRE
East Face Bugaboo Spire attempt w/ Gustavo Brillembourg
Didn't seem the like the first week of Sept was pushing our luck with the weather, but indeed we were. And while we had our chance to top on the Cooper Route, we bailed from the bivy ledge when we should have stayed. Two days later winter arrived and we left for Wyoming where it snowed there too. After that we went to Jackson to celebrate our lack of success. Driving through most of the night allowed us to get in one day at the City before I needed to get Gus back to the airport in Calgary. He had a real job in NYC while I was un-employed and headed to the North Cascades.
1983
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Name: West 1983 Destination: A two part trip. The first part with Mary and the second with Gustavo. Almost ten weeks total. Timeframe: June - September Description:
The Albums:
Various climbs w/ Mary Erdei
A big winter left plenty of snow in the backcountry all summer. Our final East Side adventure included climbs on University, Goode, Gilbert and the Matterhorn. Most of the slides from this year were lost so there is not much to show here.
Two weeks on the backside w/ Gustavo Brillembourg
15 days in the Northern Selkirks. That amazing trip with Gustavo Brillembourg happened so long ago now (Aug 83) that it is hard to remember the details from our adventure into the unknown.
WIND RIVER RANGE: LOST TEMPLE SPIRE
Squaretop w/ Mary Erdei and Lost Temple Spire w/ Gustavo Brillembourg
Sandwiched around our big trip to the Adaments were two visits to the Winds. Mary and I went looking for Squaretop and Gus and I climbed Haystack and a new route on Lost Temple Spire.
1982
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Name: West 1982 Destination: Solo climbs at Lone Peak Utah, the Sawtooths, in the Wind River Range and a Gannett trip w/ Chip Cole Timeframe: July - September Description: After spending the winter of 81/82 in Denver, I arrived in Salt Lake to again work with Jay on some commercial carpentry he was doing with a friend. I was there from the 20th of June until July 9th. I earned enough money to make some payments on my new Mazda 2000 and then headed out to spend 7 weeks on the road doing climbs by myself on Lone Peak, Elephants Perch and numerous peaks in the Wind River Range from July 31st until Sept 3rd.
The Albums:
Three classic routes in the Lone Peak cirque
After working in early July w/ Jay and his boss on some building projects in SLC, I had enough money to spend the rest of the summer climbing in the Rockies. I started with Lone Peak just down the valley. Ended up doing Open Book, Thumb Center and Question Mark Wall as roped solos - improving my self belay system and gaining confidence for longer routes in Wyoming
Mt Heyburn attempt, the Beckey Route on the Elephants Perch and Peak 10,200 - solo
After seeing the Elephants Perch from the shoulder of Heyburn, I did the long walk back out, got some beta in a shop in town and came back via a motorized ride on the lake with my sights set on doing a climb on that wall. The Beckey route seemed like a good choice for a route I could solo. Travelling with Ace meant I couldn't bivy on the climb, so I fixed a pitch or two, camped with him and then went for it early the next morning. Was back in camp by the end of the day. No pictures. Another case of losing many of my slides from the early years. Next day I went way up the valley to do an easy snow climb on the north side of Peak 10,200.
A long stretch of time alone climbing from south to north
After the Perch in the Sawtooths, I spent the rest of the summer visiting most of the major drainages in the Wind River Range - climbing alone almost the entire time. I started with an attempt on what is now known as "Little Sandy Formations" - pt 11720' - the "Gold Dihedrals" (Chouinard). Took me a while to get comfortable with self belayed roped soloing and perhaps I was off route, but thin wires on this route spooked me and I backed off. I did the same on the North Face of Temple, but by the time I got to Peak Lake and the North Face of Sulphur, I had found my confidence and didn't retreat from any other routes. As Sept arrived my older brother and I headed in for a go at the north side of Gannett. He ran out of time (needed to be in the Tetons), but I stayed on and had a great day on the north face / north ridge.
1981
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Name: Angel Wings - 1981 Destination: A New Years trip to climb a big wall deep in Sequoia Nat Park Timeframe: December - January Description: Jay and I knew each other from our North Conway days and being neighbors, we started making plans right away. We lucked out in going to Hamilton Lakes in January as the Sierra had liitle or no snow at that point. We carried skies just in case. We got to carry them out too as the weather was warm and mostly sunny the whole time.
The Albums:
The Beckey Route in winter w/ Jay Wilson
That's winter with a lower case w. After an attempt on a new line up the center of the face, we took a day off and then on the fifth day did the Beckey route on the left end of the wall. Got down in time to get as far out as Buck Creek where we slept on the bridge. Next day we made it out and over to the east side before taking Route 6 back to SLC the following day. A really fun 10 day trip.
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Name: High Sierra - 1981 Destination: The better part of a month on the east side with Mary and then a solo excursion into the Evolution region Timeframe: May - June Description: May 1981 was certainly the biggest and most successful of the early years. It was also the beginning of the end. Though I didn't know it at the time, Mary and I would never again spend this much time in the range. After she left to head east for grad school I spent a fantastic week doing the North Lake to South Lake loop thru Evolution country, climbing whatever looked good. Still plenty of snow, so I did 3 snow route and then a rock route on Thunderbolt. Could have and should have stayed longer. It was a magic time for me.
The Albums:
High Sierra climbs w/ Mary Erdei
Looking into more corners of range from the East side. Climbs in Tuttle Creek, Lone Pine Creek and Shepherd Pass area.
Late Spring snow climbs in the Evolution region
A great week of solo climbs on the classic North Lake to South Lake loop thru the Evolution region. Long before it became popular. Didn't see anybody for the whole week!
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Name: West 1981 Destination: A 3 week road trip to British Columbia and Wyoming with Jay Wilson Timeframe: July - August Description: After California I went to Flagstaff for a visit with Mom before heading up to Salt Lake. Jay and Louise had just bought a house and needed some help with the remo. The idea was that if we could make good progress on it, we could take three weeks to cliimb afterwords. Jay needed to be home by the 10th of August. Tight window but we did get our three weeks and had a great time in Canada and Wyoming.
The Albums:
Rock climbs w/ Jay Wilson
We left SLC on the 17th of August and arrived at the Kain Hut on the 19th. The next ten days were alot of fun, made hilariously more so by the arrival shortly thereafter of Paul Baird. He kept the entire place cracking up. In the meantime we did routes on Snowpatch, the East Face of Bugaboo, an attempt on the West Face of North Howser Tower and the McTech Arete.
Southwest Face w/ Jay Wilson
After a close call on the Wishbone, the next day Jay and I found a nice line to the right of the Roof Glacier. Mt Robson is one of those peaks where no matter what route you chose to climb, if you make it to the top, you've done a big thing. As luck would have it I have been to the top twice.
Fowler Route on the Enclose w/ Jay Wilson
One of the hidden gems in the Teton Range is this mixed route on the North Side of the Enclosure. I remember chasing Jay across the Vahalla Traverse in the dark. Man was he fast on that kind of terrain. The sudden onset of a thunderstorm as we descended into the Upper Saddle put a trip to the top of the Grand out of the question. Other than that, a great day.
1980
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Name: West 1980 Destination: A short fall trip while moving out west to Salt Lake Timeframe: Sept - October Description: After our 79 trip Mary and I made plans to get married and to move out west. It was fortunate for us that Jay and Louise were also living in Salt Lake as at the time we thought Utah was the place for us. We got to Colorado by the first week of Sept, and figured we had about 5 weeks to play before snow in the mountains was more likely than not to happen. First we got a brisk introduction to the Northern Winds, then did some hiking in the Colorado Front Range and finished up an ascent of the classic Ellingwood Arete on Crestone Needle
The Albums:
This was the 2nd time I'd we'd come to climb the 'Diamond'. First was with Mark Richey in 1975. Both times we were completely ignorant of what had and hadn't been done on this interesting face. Only lately did I notice that the one climbing shot of Mary is somewhat similar to the MP shot of Captain Morgan.
A brisk introduction to the Northern Winds w/ Mary Erdei
Mid Sept might not be the smartest time to spend two weeks in Titcomb Basin, but what did we know. This was our first trip to the Northern Winds. More or less had the place to ourselves. In between the storms we got to climb on three days, the last of which was a full on epic ascent of Tower 1 Gully and Tower Ridge to Mt Helen. Descended in the dark w/o headlamps using the moon when possible. Arrived back at camp at 1am to find the dogs freaked out and our tent flat and broken from the strong winds that had blown all day long. Next night a big thunderstorm roared down the valley. Pretty intimidating as the thunder roared and the winds battered our patched up tent poles. The next morning was clear and calm as we started the two day walk out.
Ellingwod Arete w/ Mary Erdei and Chip Cole
After our epic trip to Titcomb Basin we had time for one more adventure before heading for Salt Lake where we needed an apt and work. Chip was picking away at his 14ers and wanted to do this classic line. He borrowed a friends high clearance 4x4 for the approach drive, but it seemed to me to be faster to just walk that section.
1979
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Name: West 1979 Destination: Another long trip to many of the now familar haunts Timeframe: June - October Description: Mary quite her job at the end of May ... so did I for that matter. We left immediately for Denver and the start of a huge road trip. People came and went. Chip went with us to try the Spearhead in RMNP, then Dennis Ellsohn joined us for a trip to the Bugs. After that the 3 of us were joined by Chris Hassig for a trip into the heart of the Beartooths. Then came some great climbing with Mark Whiton in the Winds follow by some quality time in the Sierras. By mid Sept we'd returned from a quick visit to Flagstaff (mom) and the Pacific Coast to rendezvous with Mark in the Valley. It was hot so we bailed on attempts on the NA and Zodiac and headed up to Tuolumne to catch up with Rains and his friends, the highlight of which was a bivy at the top of Conness after a memorable day on the Harding Route. We got back to North Conway the first week of October. We'd been gone four months!
The Albums:
Sykes Sickle attempt w/ Mary Erdei and Chip Cole
Sneaking dogs into the park is just not a good idea. Particularly when a big boomer comes along, spooks them and they head back to the trailhead and get picked up by the park rangers. Meanwhile we bailed when the storm hit and had a tense night wondering where the pups were. Of course they got picked up by the rangers and we got a day in court to pay a $50 fine. Ace was not particularly friendly with all the strangers he didn't recognize, so that didn't help our case at all. Lesson learned.
Climbs in the Lone Peak cirque w/ Mary Erdei
After the debacle in RMNP and a date with the judge we collected our dogs and headed west to the Wasatch. We under-estimated the heat and ran out of water on the long walk up Draper Ridge. The dogs came to our rescue and found water towards the end of the day. We ended up doing two climbs in the area before we needed to head north to pick up Dennis in Billings, MT.
Colbalt Lake variation: Bugaboo Spire & S Howser Tower w/ Dennis Ellsohn
Travelling with dogs in the 70s was problematic. In the Bugs, we had to stay outside the park. A little valley above Cobalt Lake just east of the boundary worked out just fine. The weather - not so much. We did get up the Chouinard Beckey which was what we came for.
BEARTOOTHS - GLACIER PEAK CIRQUE
Glacier Peak and Mt Villard
A ten day loop thru the heart of the Beartooths by way of the seldom visited north side of Glacier Peak. Lots of rain, but enough good weather to make it a great adventure none the less.
w/ Mary Erdei and Mark Whiton
After our trips to BC and Montana we dropped down to familiar territory. A quick 6 day circuit of the Shadow and Baptiste Lakes region yielded some great routes in places I hadn't been before. The highlight of this visit had to be our failed attempt to put in a new line on the striking West Buttress of Bollinger.
Late summer climbs w/ Mary Erdei
Nothing lasts forever though in 1979 we tried our best to stay on the road indefinitely. After 3+ months we spent late August and early September climbing in the high country. The weather was perfect.
An attempt on El Cap, Fairview Dome and Mt Conness with Mark Whiton and Rainsford Rouner
After our three weeks in the High Sierra Mary and I went to the ocean for a bit. Then we went up to Tuolumne for a few days. After that it was back down to the Valley to meet Mark for a go at the big stone. It was too hot and we bailed on both the NA and Zodiac. So it was back up to Tuolumne with a new plan to hook up with Rainsford and do the Harding Route on Conness. Great ending to a really long trip.
1978
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Name: Les Alps 1978 Destination: A summer in Chamonix. Timeframe: July - September Description: Half the gang went to Peru and the other half went to the Alps. At least the people I was hanging around with. Mid July till Labor Day. A mix of personalities and levels of ambition. We all got along and managed to do some fine climbs. Camping the first half of the trip. Then when the bulk of the team showed up, we moved into an apartment in Argentierre. Deluxe! Weather was hit of miss, but probably normal as things go.
The Albums:
A season in the Mont Blanc Massif w/ Jeff Pheasant, Michael Hartrich and Alain Comeau
The idea was to stay as long as possible, climb often and some how make it work on $10 a day.
1977
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Name: West 1977 Destination: Another long trip. Aiming even higher. Timeframe: May - September Description: A tragic summer on two occasions. Painful memories mixed in with new locations and new partners.
The Albums:
High Sierra climbs w/ Mary Erdei and Bryan Becker
After spending one of the wettest Mays on record in the Valley, we were hoping for a better luck in June. We got a little bit of both. Bryan and I did a route on the West Face of Russell in marginal weather. Spent most of the day in the clouds. Walked out the next day in a storm. Then the weather settled down and the three of us did Temple and Bear Creek Spire. After that Mary headed home and I went off to solo Clarence King. Up the East Ridge and down the South. Don't think I did the drop down that the 'Indirect' does. Just stayed with the ridge. Lost all the pictures from the Russell and Clarence King.
Down time in the Cirque of the Unclimables
15 days of rain in a 3 week visit ... not alot of time left to go climbing. But, Mark Whiton, Al Rubin and I did get up the Lotus Flower Tower, followed a few days later by Michael Hartrich and Bryan Becker
1976
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Name: West 1976 Destination: Trying to duplicate the magic of '75 Timeframe: July - September Description: Shorter trip: later start and later finish. Great expectations. Sometimes the experience doesn't quite live up to it. Bad weather didn't help. But still, some great climbs and moments of comraderie
The Albums:
A free attempt on a link up using the Yellow Wall with the Forrest finish.
Rains and I showed up with a whole different attitude than Mark and I had employed the year before. Gone were the Super Guides. Now it was EBs and chalk. We rapped in rather than go up the North Chimney, fixed a pitch or two and had a nice evening on Broadway. Next morning we headed up with minimal idea of where to go. By mid afternoon the weather was looking very sketchy and I convinced Rains we should bail. We did, but it never rained. Always the cautious one ... that's me.
WIND RIVER RANGE - EAST FORK VALLEY
A six day trip remembered mostly for bad weather and minimal climbing
After the Diamond attempt Mary joined us for a week in the Winds. Turns out Michael Hartrich, Al Rubin and David ('Hot Curl') Linden were also headed for East Fork Valley. At least we did a couple routes on Mid Summer Dome and one easy one on the first peak south of Raid. Other than that we got to hang around alot.
Liberty Crack w/ Rainsford Rouner
From July 25 till Aug 19th, it rained 17 out of a possible 26 days. Now that's frustrating when you're living on the road. At least we caught a nice short window for this climb. We walked up to the base of the cliff, saw this obvious crack system and went for it. We had no beta, no guide - just masters of the obvious.
An early attempt of the Andromeda Strain w/ Rainsford Rounder
Two visits in the summer of 76, the 2nd one resulting in an attempt on the as yet unclimbed rockies classic. Best that we didn't know what we were getting into. Backed off in steep aid late in the day. Rained hard the next day.
South Face w/ Mary Erdei and Rainsford Rounter
On our way to the Sierra after our trip to the Can Rocks, we stopped off in Leavenworth for a quick visit to Prussik Peak. Nice climb just far too short.
HIGH SIERRA - KEELER AND CLYDE
The Harding route w/ Rainsford Rouner and Starlight Pillar w/ Mary Erdei
Two of the best routes from the early years. The Harding route was interesting because we were a few pitches above them when Galen Rowell and friends were doing their historic FFA. After the Keeler Needle, Rains left for the Valley. I would catch up with him later, but before that I wanted to do Clyde with Mary. It was a wonderful trip into the unknown. If you have a copy of Roper's SC guide, you'll know what I mean. It was the first week of September. We had the South Fork all to ourselves. What's really sad about these two routes is that I lost most of the slides many years ago - long before I even had a scanner to preserve them.
1975
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Name: West 1975 Destination: A major excursion: Yosemite, RMNP, Tetons, Winds, Bugs, Sierras, and back to the Valley to finish up. Timeframe: April - September Description: The first real road trip. The one that set the stage for so many to follow. We left NH late in April and I got back to North Conway around Labor Day. Those were the days. Hard to believe I was able to leave for months on end, do it on a shoestring budget and still have a job at EMS when I got back. Of course nothing lasts forever, but while it did, this was good.
The Albums:
Yellow Wall to Table Ledge with Mark Richey
Seeing the Diamond while hiking the Keyhole Route the year before fired up my desire to get on this wall. Mark and I were just getting started on our two month road trip. The cliff was wet and did our best to stay dry, but by the time we got to table ledge, all the vertical possibilities to the top were running with lots of water. So ... we traversed off. We also did the Northcutt Carter on Hallets and the Petit Grepon.
Tetons & Wind River Range w/ Mark Richey
In the Tetons we knew we wanted to do the Black Ice Couloir. Only thing we knew about the Winds was we were headed to the Cirque. We had the old Bonney guide book to go by. The mosquitoes were ravenous. We did a route on the east face of Pingora and went back to Jackson.
East Face of Snowpatch attempt w/ Mark and Rainsford
The first thing I remember about the Bugaboos is that everyone expected that I would already know where they were. One visit was all it took to solve that issue. Rains, Mark and I arrived in the Bugaboos with no idea what we wanted to do. One look at the East Face of Snowpatch and we had a plan. The weather had it's own plans.
Mendel Couloir w/ Mark Richey and Rainsford Rouner
After our epic retreat from the East Face of Snowpatch the 'Californians' at the Kain Hut recommended we head south to Mt Mendel. Good advice that.